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I was putting additional sockets on a ring final circuit for a client - all done, pretty simple job.
BUT!! When doing the testing, found the main switch and live feed to main RCD had serious overheating damage!! Needless to say needs replacing! All the circuits are in good condition.
its an older MEM board 16th edition and I have managed to get a new main switch, the problem I have is getting the correct cable to replace the one on the board - these usually come with fuseboards - does anybody know where I can get one? Or should I just replace it with standard meter tails?
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I was putting additional sockets on a ring final circuit for a client - all done, pretty simple job.
BUT!! When doing the testing, found the main switch and live feed to main RCD had serious overheating damage!! Needless to say needs replacing! All the circuits are in good condition.
its an older MEM board 16th edition and I have managed to get a new main switch, the problem I have is getting the correct cable to replace the one on the board - these usually come with fuseboards - does anybody know where I can get one? Or should I just replace it with standard meter tails?
 

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Thanks, another mate of mine said that - the busbar has already been cleaned up ok, just need the other stuff
So next time you come across a cable that’s suffered thermal damage, you’ll just buff up all the burnt bits, with a bit of emery papers, and screw in back in. Hope your insurance company has a similar view of things, should it all go wrong.

Why are you so willing to save these people from spending money on their responsibilities?
 
So next time you come across a cable that’s suffered thermal damage, you’ll just buff up all the burnt bits, with a bit of emery papers, and screw in back in. Hope your insurance company has a similar view of things, should it all go wrong.

Why are you so willing to save these people from spending money on their responsibilities?
The cable is damaged and will be replaced along with the main switch but the bus bar has onot suffered blackening hence it cleans up nicely. The nature of Cu is that it can tolerate very high temperatures, particularly if it’s a solid bar..
If I thought for one minute that the damage was irreparable I would not touch it and would get the client to accept a new fuse board to 18th standards is the only thing to do.
Dont get me wrong - this is a temporary fix anyway until that happens because they already realise a new board is the only way after I showed them the damage.
 
The cable is damaged and will be replaced along with the main switch but the bus bar has onot suffered blackening hence it cleans up nicely. The nature of Cu is that it can tolerate very high temperatures, particularly if it’s a solid bar..
If I thought for one minute that the damage was irreparable I would not touch it and would get the client to accept a new fuse board to 18th standards is the only thing to do.
Dont get me wrong - this is a temporary fix anyway until that happens because they already realise a new board is the only way after I showed them the damage.
The bus bar looks damaged to me, and like the cable it can’t just be cleaned, because the terminals will tarnish again and fail.

I would expedite the replacement of the CU.
 
The bus bar looks damaged to me, and like the cable it can’t just be cleaned, because the terminals will tarnish again and fail.

I would expedite the replacement of the CU.
Noted Midwest - thanks for that. The general consensus, including yours is pretty much what I thought - it’s just great to get all the views together from so many professionals.
It also adds a considerable weight to my client persuasion techniques when it comes to fuse board changes....
 
I think I'd be replacing the busbar rather than cleaning it up. I'm guessing the blackened bits on the busbar are soot which is acidic and will eat into the metal. If it has only just happened then cleaning it off will be fine, but you have no way of knowing this and it's probably been like that for ages slowly eating into the copper. It's just not worth the risk for the sake of a new busbar, although I know it'll be a pain to find the right one!

Probably best just to change the CU as most others have said.
 
I think I'd be replacing the busbar rather than cleaning it up. I'm guessing the blackened bits on the busbar are soot which is acidic and will eat into the metal. If it has only just happened then cleaning it off will be fine, but you have no way of knowing this and it's probably been like that for ages slowly eating into the copper. It's just not worth the risk for the sake of a new busbar, although I know it'll be a pain to find the right one!

Probably best just to change the CU as most others have said.
Agreed - I have tracked down a replacement busbar - being delivered tomorrow!!
They will still end up getting a new CU later on anyway....
 
Whilst I understand the need to replace heat damaged components (or components which have corroded due to arcing etc), I cant see how there could be any hidden damage to a copper busbar. Copper melts at 1085 degrees, and I cant see that happening to metal that thick, without leaving more serious damage. I suppose it could have warped, but that is easy to check. Surely any corrosion from acidic soot would be obvious as the surface would be pitted? It's thickness could easily be checked. Are there other ways it could fail?
 
Unless you have some qualification in metal analysis, how would you know if this damaged busbar has reacted to the thermal application. Its clearly suffered surface damage, as per the suggestion it can be just cleaned off.

If you ever tried cleaning off a large copper cable that has suffered thermal damage, you'll know the fix is short term. If a replacement bus bar was freely available, then I doubt anyone would question its replacement. In this case it has been problematic in finding a new one (I see the OP has), but that shouldn't change the attitude to the repair.

Quite frankly, its not worth the risk.
 
Managed to get it sorted using original parts thanks to sparkySy.
Also found that the 20a fuselink has heat damage from the main switch so have another one on the way....
 

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