Manufacturer recommends 32amp breaker for 2kw appliance?

[stokielee]

Got to a customers house today after a brief discussion recently that they have brought a 2kw hob and it needs fittings. I went through the manufacturer’s instructions and they recommend it to be hard wired and that it is to be put on a 32amp breaker, obviously a 2kw appliance will pull around 8amps if my maths is correct so I am wondering am I missing something here? The hard wired part isn’t a problem, it’s more the size of breaker they recommend. There was 2x line and 2x neutral conductors too crimped together (this is where I first thought things weren’t what I am used to)

 

[ninemaverickbars]

I can relate to the confusion relating to manufacturers instructions.

We took delivery of a new fan oven last week (Smeg). It's under 3000W. Curry's insist that it must be connected to an FCU. Upon unpacking, theres a flex attached without a plug, but also a label on the flex instructing the installer to fit a plug fused at 13A!

The thing is, in our setup, if someone did that along with our new hob, they'd overload the 2 ganger thats there at the moment.

I'm going FCU route anyway, as I reckon it would be hard to argue a correctly fitted FCU is somehow inferior to a plug?

 

[John-SJW]

Many manufacturers do not rewrite the instruction for the UK market. For example AEG make an integrated fridge that consumes about 1/3 amp. They say it must have a 16A supply. That is totally inappropriate for British ring final circuits. So it must be ignored.

It comes with a 13A plug with a 13A fuse inside for an appliance drawing around 1/3 amp. The cable looks heavy enough to take 16A. The cable looks like it is to be protected by only a 16A MCB at the CU on a radial circuit with a non-fused Euro plug. It look like the 13A fuse does not protect the appliance.

A 3A or 6A fuse will protect this fridge adequately. It does not have to be on 16A supply or a hefty cable in the UK. I assume that it cannot be fitted on a 20A radial as the cable is not man enough to take 20A.

 

[Vortigern]

Induction hobs are always large draw. The 1200 and 2000 refer to each ring so 2x 1200 and 2 x 2000 which brings us up to 6.4. kw = 28a = 10 + 6 =16a. I would check it is actually CE marked.

 

[mainline]

Many manufacturers do not rewrite the instruction for the UK market. For example AEG make an integrated fridge that consumes about 1/3 amp. They say it must have a 16A supply. That is totally inappropriate for British ring final circuits. So it must be ignored.

It comes with a 13A plug with a 13A fuse inside for an appliance drawing around 1/3 amp. The cable looks heavy enough to take 16A. The cable looks like it is to be protected by only a 16A MCB at the CU on a radial circuit with a non-fused Euro plug. It look like the 13A fuse does not protect the appliance.

A 3A or 6A fuse will protect this fridge adequately. It does not have to be on 16A supply or a hefty cable in the UK. I assume that it cannot be fitted on a 20A radial as the cable is not man enough to take 20A.

The reason for the larger fuse is the starting surge current.
The fuse is to protect the cable.

 

[davesparks]

I would check it is actually CE marked.

These post-brexit days it should be a UKCA mark for anything in the UK

 

[brianmoooore]

These post-brexit days it should be a UKCA mark for anything in the UK

Can you buy them on sticky back rolls as well?

 

[littlespark]

These post-brexit days it should be a UKCA mark for anything in the UK

Unusable Krap from China Anyway?

 

[John-SJW]

I'm going FCU route anyway, as I reckon it would be hard to argue a correctly fitted FCU is somehow inferior to a plug?

FCU is better than a plug for sure. But when on for sustained periods the 13A fuse, or connections, can overheat. A small box with a 13A MCB (or 16A - yes you can have a 16A MCB off a ring) and 20A DP switch off the ring would be better for sure. They could be in an adjacent cupboard.

An extreme example.

MCB can be in a box like this. About £3-4