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stokielee

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Got to a customers house today after a brief discussion recently that they have brought a 2kw hob and it needs fittings. I went through the manufacturer’s instructions and they recommend it to be hard wired and that it is to be put on a 32amp breaker, obviously a 2kw appliance will pull around 8amps if my maths is correct so I am wondering am I missing something here? The hard wired part isn’t a problem, it’s more the size of breaker they recommend. There was 2x line and 2x neutral conductors too crimped together (this is where I first thought things weren’t what I am used to)
 

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Right, things make even more sense today, the customer never brought the original hob that they sent me, they’ve got a completely different one and never told me.
I have attached photos of before and after.
Then, looking further into the operating instructions, each hob is 1200-2000watt so that explains the bigger cable/MCB now.
Sorry to waste your times, I shouldn’t of listened to the customer and double checked the instructions when the actual appliance arrived, I’ll put it down as a lesson learnt.
Thank you for all your comments and help.
 

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The first picture says it has a 13A plug.
sureley it is limiting its current draw to less than 3kw in total.
 
The first picture says it has a 13A plug.
sureley it is limiting its current draw to less than 3kw in total.
The 13amp plug is what the customer originally sent me for approval then without telling me they have brought a different hob. Then I saw 2000watt on the box and assumed it was the original hob and required 8amps or there about.
 
I can relate to the confusion relating to manufacturers instructions.

We took delivery of a new fan oven last week (Smeg). It's under 3000W. Curry's insist that it must be connected to an FCU. Upon unpacking, theres a flex attached without a plug, but also a label on the flex instructing the installer to fit a plug fused at 13A!

The thing is, in our setup, if someone did that along with our new hob, they'd overload the 2 ganger thats there at the moment.

I'm going FCU route anyway, as I reckon it would be hard to argue a correctly fitted FCU is somehow inferior to a plug?
 
Many manufacturers do not rewrite the instruction for the UK market. For example AEG make an integrated fridge that consumes about 1/3 amp. They say it must have a 16A supply. That is totally inappropriate for British ring final circuits. So it must be ignored.

It comes with a 13A plug with a 13A fuse inside for an appliance drawing around 1/3 amp. The cable looks heavy enough to take 16A. The cable looks like it is to be protected by only a 16A MCB at the CU on a radial circuit with a non-fused Euro plug. It look like the 13A fuse does not protect the appliance.

A 3A or 6A fuse will protect this fridge adequately. It does not have to be on 16A supply or a hefty cable in the UK. I assume that it cannot be fitted on a 20A radial as the cable is not man enough to take 20A.
 
Many manufacturers do not rewrite the instruction for the UK market. For example AEG make an integrated fridge that consumes about 1/3 amp. They say it must have a 16A supply. That is totally inappropriate for British ring final circuits. So it must be ignored.

It comes with a 13A plug with a 13A fuse inside for an appliance drawing around 1/3 amp. The cable looks heavy enough to take 16A. The cable looks like it is to be protected by only a 16A MCB at the CU on a radial circuit with a non-fused Euro plug. It look like the 13A fuse does not protect the appliance.

A 3A or 6A fuse will protect this fridge adequately. It does not have to be on 16A supply or a hefty cable in the UK. I assume that it cannot be fitted on a 20A radial as the cable is not man enough to take 20A.
The reason for the larger fuse is the starting surge current.
The fuse is to protect the cable.
 
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