MICC CPC

[WallaceP]

I was looking at a job all wired in pyro. The pryo goes into the metal backbox with no flying lead, no problem can sort that out. However on the downstairs socket it looks like there has been some modifications ar some point. Instead of the MICC being glanded its just taken into the back box and potted. They have taken some copper wire and taped it to the sheath to get the cpc to the faceplace.
surprisingly this has worked very well as far as test results go.
I have been thinking of solutions for this,
1 fit a gland on the cable and reuse the old put with new compound. But I would need to cut open the wall to do this and I think the owner of the property is rather proud of their ‘period’ wall coverings
2. Replace the pot with an earthed one but im not to confident of getting the correct sized pot
3. Solder a flying lead onto the sheath? Not put too much thought into this and would love to hear if anyone has experiance with this

If anyone has any experience with this or has a better solution I would be very grateful

 

[westward10]

Have you established whether they are imperial or metric size cables. Any amount of works to these cables will be difficult without any cosmetic damage, they definitely aren't back boxes which clamp the cables?
Any soldering to the sheath will be hit and miss but not impossible but the sheath will act as a heat sink and will require considerable heat in a concentrated area which may affect the properties of the existing pot.

 

[Dave OCD]

If there's sufficient bare sheath before the pot within the back box you could possibly use a bare copper p clip type of arrangement with a brass nut and bolt and attach a fly lead to that.

 

[mattg4321]

People have often mentioned pyro clamps on here before, but never backed it up with a source or even part number.

They would be extremely handy if they actually exist though. I may have a use for them on a potential job.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Agree with both the above ideas. A copper strip clamped round the sheath is effective provided it is not going to be buried in potentially damp plaster that could corrode the fly lead connection. Soldering to the sheath works fine too, but should be done quickly to avoid melting the seal disc. You will want an iron of 250W or so, or a torch. With my trusty 300W Henley Solon I could solder a 2.5mm flylead to a 2L2.5 in a couple of seconds and the pot would barely get warm. Avoid flux running into the pot thread.

 

[WallaceP]

Have you established whether they are imperial or metric size cables. Any amount of works to these cables will be difficult without any cosmetic damage, they definitely aren't back boxes which clamp the cables?
Any soldering to the sheath will be hit and miss but not impossible but the sheath will act as a heat sink and will require considerable heat in a concentrated area which may affect the properties of the existing pot.

The installation is from the 1950s so I thought it would be imperial but at this point I am not sure. I thought the grommet was a nice touch lol

 

[Lou7]

Can you change the box to a pot box ?

 

[WallaceP]

Can you change the box to a pot box ?

I have never seen such sorcery before, i will look into this

 

[7029 dave]

I have never seen such sorcery before, i will look into this

The above is a surface box but you might be able to work with it.

 

[7029 dave]

People have often mentioned pyro clamps on here before, but never backed it up with a source or even part number.

They would be extremely handy if they actually exist though. I may have a use for them on a potential job.

They also do a through box type as well, pot clamps I used these for plaster depth work, appleby do these.
My preferred method is glanding and using conduit boxes.