View the thread, titled "neutrals at switches" which is posted in Australia on Electricians Forums.

W

wattsup

easy peasy wiring....i never used to do it, but now seems common practice...I was intending to use dp grid switches...but now ahhh, we want dimmers . No probs with the rotary dimmers but a neutral connected in the backbox. Is that bad pactice?
 
Another consideration should be given to the fact that for a number of reasons it can be an advantage having a permanent live at the fittings ie ext fans, smoke detectors, even a possible e/m light fitting. all possibles at a future date, with 3 plate. Also whilst it may simplify connections at the light fittings,to have neutrals at the switch, it will complicate things at the switch positions. I would only do this if neccassary, again just an opinion. Also any inductive/back emf sensitive equipment should be run in screened or shielded cables to be on the safe side anyway's. Again just an observation, we all have our prefferances.;)
Not to start a fuss but what about isolation for e/m and smokes. Your still going to have to knock out for a test switch.
 
Not to start a fuss but what about isolation for e/m and smokes. Your still going to have to knock out for a test switch.

Nothing wrong with the isolation being local to the e/m. Depends on the situation admitted, but there have been times when a permanent live at a light fitting as saved a lot of messing around. ;)
 
It would be mighty congested if you had a two gang two way switch with neutrals at the switch.

Agree competely Ian.
I think there is a place for both methods, but using the neutral at switch as a preferance over 3 plate on a regular basis would not be a good thing. 3 plate in domestic installs is well proven, yes there are examples when the latter may prove beneficial but not as a replacement to tried and tested methods. If its not broke, why fix it.;)
 
Agree competely Ian.
I think there is a place for both methods, but using the neutral at switch as a preferance over 3 plate on a regular basis would not be a good thing. 3 plate in domestic installs is well proven, yes there are examples when the latter may prove beneficial but not as a replacement to tried and tested methods. If its not broke, why fix it.;)
you have to isolate the circuit with 3-plate to change fitting

also light fitting is congested with wires
 
you have to isolate the circuit with 3-plate to change fitting

also light fitting is congested with wires

I would isolate if changing a fitting anyway, regardless. The click (Oh sorry didnt see you up there) scenario, whilst your doing your version of a breakdancer up a ladder doesnt appeal to me. :eek::D;)
 
it's basically the same thing

loop to switches or loop to lights-much easier to swop out fitings with just the t+e

less diy disasters as well

loop in to lights is handier for re-wires
 
What about the diy guy changing the light switch. I think this one goes here and that one goes there. Right, lets switch on BANG!!.:o
Lets face it there are pros and cons for both methods.;)
 
loop out ceiling is ok when one fitting, but 12 lights switched 2-gang is a semi-problem (not problem really but hassle). It is easier to first fix loop in ceiling, but much harder 2nd fix.

If it were a new build, i would use singles all the time
 
It would be mighty congested if you had a two gang two way switch with neutrals at the switch.

Which is exactly what i have, which is why i have been reading this forum. 2x supply 2 core an earth (one in, one out to next room) 2x 3core an earth, 2x 2core an earth to lights. I can get rid of one supply cable by moviing it to the last room on that particular circuit but that still leaves me with5 cables in one switch box ie 17 individual cores. my initial thought was oh s..t, but now i'm thinking shall i just make the box deeper ( a lot deeper ). I am fitting 14 downlighters split on the two circuits. Any thoughts !!!
 
Haven't got BGB to hand, but I believe that 2011 now says that consideration should be given to provide a neutral at a switch position. The intent behind this is for electronic switching devices that require one.
 
Beat me to it, you can get neutral-free electronic switches but using them with discharge lighting means install capacitors in all the fittings.
 

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