View the thread, titled "neutrals at switches" which is posted in Australia on Electricians Forums.

W

wattsup

easy peasy wiring....i never used to do it, but now seems common practice...I was intending to use dp grid switches...but now ahhh, we want dimmers . No probs with the rotary dimmers but a neutral connected in the backbox. Is that bad pactice?
 
Got it sorted, used a 47mm box and set it a tad deeper, then used Wago connectors . I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was with these connectors and it didn't look like a plate of ' spag bol' when i finished.
 
To be honest it’s something I’ve never done. But the last house I rewired was 25 years back. It does make sense to take the neutral to the switch.
With new switch technology a neutral may be required in the future. OK a deeper box is needed but I now would say it’s worth the effort. (There again I’m not knocking the hole out for it).
 
One possible reason for neutral at switch, would be to allow an earth loop impedance check at a metal clad switch. Thus saving trailing cables giving marginally incorrect readings.
 
Being one of those sparks used to installing 3 plate (stuck in me ways i reckon) i'm starting to wonder if instead of just using a twin & earth for my switch cable i might use a 3 core and earth instead...giving me a 3 plate + neutral at the switch. Only problem is 2 neutrals in one hole at the ceiling rose *ponders*
 
I've been looping in and out from the switches for 15 years , so have all the other sparks i've grown up with who have served their time in the commercial sector.
Pro's outweigh the cons in my mind.
 
Looping at the switch is so much easier to install in my opinion.
Easier to fit the crappy customer supplied fittings designed for one cable....
And less Connections to make off
Above your head! Especially as I'm
Short lol.
Nice and easy at working height at the
Switch :)
 
I use which ever method works best for the installation I am working on. I do have a preference for neutral at the switch, so many modern light fittings will not easily take a 3 plate connection. I usually put in deeper back boxes for switches to allow for dimmers to be fitted in the future. I have also, in bungalows, fitted junction boxes at convenient locations and taken T&E to switch and to lights.
 
Working in the modular building game we always loop into the switch. IMO it's alot easier, and dare I say abit simpler, When I was at college however I was told it was bad practice, and wasn't allowed to wire any of the rigs that way.
Personally I think there are pro's and con's to both, But for me looping at the switch is the better option in most cases, Unless your looping into a pull switch or something like that.
 

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