New cooker dp switch, existing wires won't reach terminals..

[Deuce]

Evening all,

Not a qualified spark so I thought it better to ask than make assumptions.

Swapping all switches/sockets in our house to screwless ones, all going fine until I went to swap the cooker isolator switch. The old one has feed top, load bottom. The new one has load top, feed bottom. As such, the wires won't reach their intended terminals, and there is no way of reconfiguring the switch assembly to reverse it internally and leave the "on/off" the right way round on the front.

I'm pretty sure the obvious answer is to extend the cabling in the back box, but wanted to check the best way to do this. Can I just crimp and shrink using any suitably rated crimps?

Thanks in advance

 

[Toneyz]

Morally, I agree

But I fear regulations and good practice exist as the regulators are aware that the stupid are everywhere!!

Can you not label the cables up then?

 

[PEG]

They are doing some crackin deals on new gas cookers...

 

[TJ Anderson]

Agree with that ^^^


If no neon then it's just a basic double pole switch. Scratch of supply and load markings if you like. If someone else ever works on it they should be proving dead before working on it. Otherwise they are not competent to work on it.

 

[TJ Anderson]

If no neon then it's just a basic double pole switch. Scratch off supply and load labels if you like. If someone else ever works on it they should be proving dead before working on it. Otherwise they are not competent to work on it.

 

[123]

Fit it upside down

I'd use through crimps to extend the cables.

 

[Deuce]

With no neon id connect into the load side rather than introduce a joint onto a cable that could be heavily loaded at times

You don't think anyone inspecting the work down the line would raise an eyebrow?

That's really my only concern..

 

[Deuce]

Can you not label the cables up then?

I can, is that considered good practice even though I'm ignoring the manufacturers wiring diagram?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

I would label the cables clearly and indelibly e.g. with P-Touch flags, maybe even stick a label in the backbox saying what has been done, and connect line to load and vice versa. If you do decide to extend, and Wagos don't fit nicely, don't rely on commodity grade yellow crimps (which would be smallest). Use proper ones with a published spec, and make sure the tool suits.

 

[GeorgeCooke]

Solder plus self amalgamating tape rather than crimps.

 

[Fitzy]

You could also put a sticker on the cu stating that the cooker connections are reversed at the switch.

 

[telectrix]

You could also put a sticker on the cu stating that the cooker connections are reversed at the switch.

not another bloody CU sticker?

 

[davesparks]

You don't think anyone inspecting the work down the line would raise an eyebrow?

That's really my only concern..

So what if they do raise an eyebrow?

 

[Toneyz]

You could also put a sticker on the cu stating that the cooker connections are reversed at the switch.

I think simple stickers of LOAD & SUPPLY would suffice to do at the consumer unit is going a bit OTT.

 

[Toneyz]

So what if they do raise an eyebrow?

It would be durably marked.

 

[Dave OCD]

Anyone else come across shower pull switches with the neon permanently on ? I see this fairly regularly - not my work before the site smarties get going.