New kitchen does it need own fusebox or change just the mains fusebox?

[Ell4848]

New kitchen will be installed. Do we need to rewire the kitchen? The fusebox we have is ancient and our electrician has recommended to rewire kitchen then have a consumer unit just for the kitchen electrics as he said things may trip because our consumer unit is old but my builder who covers all of this said we can change the main fusebox in the house and he's included first fix electrics in his quote


We are not changing too much when it comes to the electrics, some advice would be very much appreciated

We will be replacing the kitchen light fixture that is already there(ceiling) and replacing with something similar.

The washing machine will need a new socket installed ( double socket) and plumbing as its being moved completely to the opposite side of the kitchen where it is now

Fridge is staying in same location

The gas cooker will be moved approximately 50-60cm to the left of its current location and the new gas cooker will have an electric grill inside, the previous one was all gas (new cooker will have double gas oven with electric grill)

We would want to replace all socket covers currently there as well for aesthetics
Thank you in advance

 

[ipf]

It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?

 

[Ell4848]

It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?

Hi

Does it really cause more problems? I'm reading Conflicting reports.

Yes FCU at worktop with hardwire behind cooker

 

[ipf]

Hi

Does it really cause more problems? I'm reading Conflicting reports.

Yes FCU at worktop with hardwire behind cooker

Hard wire down to a socket at low level.....for plugging in the appliance, as a rule.

 

[Ell4848]

Hard wire down to a socket at low level.....for plugging in the appliance, as a rule.

Sorry what do you mean exactly

 

[Ell4848]

Hard wire down to a socket at low level.....for plugging in the appliance, as a rule.

Its about a 1/3 down from the grill pan

 

[Ell4848]

Its about a 1/3 down from the grill pan

Hard wire down to a socket at low level.....for plugging in the appliance, as a rule.

Or between a 1/3 and halfway down

 

[ipf]

Sorry what do you mean exactly

A FCU/ isolation point at work top height, to isolate a socket outlet at lower level, behind the kitchen units, supplying an appliance. A method used regularly in kitchens.

 

[littlespark]

Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.

 

[Ell4848]

Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.

The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker

 

[Avo Mk8]

The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker

When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug

 

[ipf]

The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker

I know different people can go off at tangents to the point in question but I'm wondering if you are any wiser to the situation?

 

[Ell4848]

When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug

Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs

 

[Ell4848]

I know different people can go off at tangents to the point in question but I'm wondering if you are any wiser to the situation?

Not really no. Sorry to say this about women on their behalf and mine but im a woman and pretty much clueless

 

[Avo Mk8]

Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs

OK, fine. That's a combination I didn't consider! No problem with the proposed arrangements.

There's been much said on the interweb about cutting off of an appliance plug invalidating warranty.
It's generally considered here to be a myth.

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[ipf]

Not really no. Sorry to say this about women on their behalf and mine but im a woman and pretty much clueless

So it seems...........sorry, only joking, Ell .......and to all our competent women members.

I think it might be best if you had a word with your electrician for a decent explanation that you can understand, to put your mind at rest. Ask why there is any need for fixed wired appliances (rather than plug-in). I've a feeling there might not be....and there may be no intention of using them. If there is, you'll know why.