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Darkwood

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Well I thought it was time to get a new MFT as the old one was 20yrs plus it got nicked too..

After a peruse and some tinterweb research I have opted for a Megger 1741 and it has arrived and first impression are pleasing, just wondered if anyone else has this particular model and what they think, interested in any negatives to look out for when using it.
 
I have one, I love it. Good bits (not saying other manufacturers don't do these things...) :

- 2 lead RCD test. No need to faff around with a neutral connection (common on all Meggers)

- Use the same 2 leads (red and green) for Ze, PEFC, and PSCC (on single phase), on the same setting: I don't bother using the separate "L-L" setting on the dial and plugging in the blue lead to measure PSCC on single phase, I just use the "L-E" setting (on "2Hi") and put the green lead on N

- Quicker, and possibly and more accurate low current Zs than other Meggers, I like the confidence indicator

- 100V IR for when you're fairly confident, but not totally confident, that there's nothing plugged in. Useless for test results, but fantastic for verifying that nothing's plugged in

- I like the long thin pointy probes, for getting in some tight spots

- Bag is great for carrying all my testing bits (jump leads, R2 adapter, lightmates etc), over-shoulder strap means I can carry my toolbox in one hand and my little ladders in the other

- in "3Lo" Zs mode, you can tell it there are Type B RCDs in play (long press on <-> ). Even if there aren't, and it's just a tetchy Type AC RCD (or maybe a lot of inherent leakage current), it's sometimes useful for getting a Zs result without using The Alternative Method (or, when you really, really don't want to trip an RCD!)

Negatives (common to all Meggers, I think):

- It's far too easy to "un-null" your leads when on continuity setting. Pressing either of the test buttons - which is very easy to do, there's one on each side and just knocking one will do it - will remove the saved null setting. A right pain in the **** if you're the other end of a wander lead! So quite often I either turn it off, or just put it on a different setting, if I'm carrying it around on my neck

- Would be nicer if the backlight light stayed on a bit longer

- Usual Megger lead incompatibility with most third party bits and bobs, so I have a couple of cheap Kewtech leads to connecting to wander lead, lightmates, R2 socket etc.
 
Appreciate the feedback guys, yep @pirate - I watched that video before buying, @happysteve thanks for the heads up on the nulling issue.

I chose this one because of the confidence technology it has, it will be able to tell me how reliable the reading is based on noise on the cable/supply, that and the fact my ancient Metrel MFT kept tripping RCD's even on the soft test setting help me go for a modern tester... no disrespect to Metrel, it has served me well but technology has moved on in 25yrs when it came out and it was just dated.
 
In retrospect I probably should have gone with this sort of thing instead of the DiLOG 9118 which lacks earth electrode testing, but for the little I do that needs it I could not really justify spending more. For folk who need it for thier day job though any niggles will quickly offset the initial price saving!
 
Had the same dilemma about a month back and ended up with the Metrel mi1352 over the 1741+ the boss bought the 1741 at the same time, we haven't had much time to play with them both with furlough etc but from the research and umming and ahrrring I decided on the metrel because it offered far more options and tests. It can test surge protectors, has a lux meter function when used with the attachment, harmonics testing, volt drop calculation, pass or fail display for most tests against current regulations minimum values, firmware can be updated as and when the regs change and you can set user profiles which can be locked so a password has to be entered every time you power on the meter, so if a little bugger nicks it theyll find its in lockout. Downsides ive noticed so far continuity buzzer is pants! very dull sounding and cant leave it on in the other room and still hear it, loop test is a bit slow, battery life on the rechargeable dont last long, this may because they're NIMIH and havent had enough charge cycles going through them yet.
 
I find the 1700 series null function pretty inconsistent TBH. I also dislike that they don't have negative values for continuity testing - makes it a chore to attain accur accurate results. Although saying that I do find Megger test results pretty damn consistent which instills faith..
 
I find the 1700 series null function pretty inconsistent TBH. I also dislike that they don't have negative values for continuity testing - makes it a chore to attain accur accurate results. Although saying that I do find Megger test results pretty damn consistent which instills faith..

Continuity tests shouldn't show negative results, you can't have negative continuity!
 
Well I thought it was time to get a new MFT as the old one was 20yrs plus it got nicked too..

After a peruse and some tinterweb research I have opted for a Megger 1741 and it has arrived and first impression are pleasing, just wondered if anyone else has this particular model and what they think, interested in any negatives to look out for when using it.
Megger have now introduced a 1741+ I spoke with the Megger rep a few months ago about it and he told me it had extra functionality that helped test earth rods and vehicle charging points etc. He also said they could upgrade the 1741 to a 1741+ - can’t remember the price but it wasn’t too much...
I only have the 1721 - I’m happy with that.... for now!!!
 
Megger have now introduced a 1741+ I spoke with the Megger rep a few months ago about it and he told me it had extra functionality that helped test earth rods and vehicle charging points etc. He also said they could upgrade the 1741 to a 1741+ - can’t remember the price but it wasn’t too much...
I only have the 1721 - I’m happy with that.... for now!!!
Yep I saw the + version but couldn't warrant the extra cost for a small perk, I also believe charging points are not the future and see many hurdles with them becoming the norm', as battery technology is now accelerating I suspect you will simply drive into your garage and swap out your battery off the shelf after it is depleted, ranges expected in the 1000's of miles are now looking plausible, this will resolve the lack of charging point network and the problems and vast cost it has to implement.
[automerge]1590830878[/automerge]
PS - I got the price down to £800 (excl')which is a tough one to beat brand new, I couldn't get anywhere near the % discount on the + version.
 
We will be swapping out battery packs in the next decade, for sure. It's here already for some vehicles, and the rate of progress is climbing
 
Continuity tests shouldn't show negative results, you can't have negative continuity!

I don't know what tester you use Dave so you may not be grasping what I am saying. Maybe my wording could have been better.
With the Megger 1500's you could null the leads and get 0.0 ohms (obviously if they are nulled!), then you could take the probes apart and if you then touched them together again and got slightly better contact the nulled result would show as -0.2 or whatever.
With the 1700 series if you did the same as above the screen will only state <0.0 ohms....<0.0 is not a helpful value to man nor beast, as it could be -1.8 or whatever..it's the not knowing that kills me!!

Obviously on a length of copper you can't get a negative continuity value, but the nulling process is a baseline to account for the resistance in the test leads and MFTs internals. The 1500 series approach was more informative and useful..
 
Displaying the less than symbol, a negative value or just an error message would all achieve the same thing, it alerts you to the fact that the nulling of the leads is wrong.

Whether the null is off by 10ohm or 0.1ohm doesn't really matter as it is wrong whatever and needs to be addressed.
 
Displaying the less than symbol, a negative value or just an error message would all achieve the same thing, it alerts you to the fact that the nulling of the leads is wrong.

Whether the null is off by 10ohm or 0.1ohm doesn't really matter as it is wrong whatever and needs to be addressed.

Predictable answer Dave with all due respect. In the real world with both Megger testers I have had, both have had a tendency to drift marginally from the original 0.0 benchline.

For whatever reasons I often find nulling leads repeatedly over a short duration can result in differences that usually range no more than 0.08 ohms. This is not a critical issue in my view for the work I do. The 1500 series displayed a tangible baseline value that could be deducted as and when necessary. The 1700s do not.

Maybe other brands of tester have better, more stable low ohm testing. I would be interested to know.
 
nulling leads repeatedly over a short duration can result in differences that usually range no more than 0.08 ohms.
My antiquated Fluke 1651B has none of these below 0 warnings , but I created a 0.07 Ohm confirm "0" ...
If it reads less than 0.03 I get clues of this 0.08 wander !
(Low ohms with pointed probes -is very much about surface hardness / cleanliness )
 
I’ve had the megger 1741 for just over a year I like it except for one problem.
I’ve just had a fuse blow and the circuit board damaged when carrying out 3lead low trip zs.
This is the third time it’s happened already sent it back to megger twice for repair and only used it a few times after getting it back. Anyone else had this problem?
 
Used robins on the electric board. Forum rules probably prevent my expressing the depth of my feelings on the insulation tester, but after a row with our tool guy (a nepotism benefitting slob who was about as useful as ---- on a bull) I can only conclude gloucester is plagued by floating pockets of low resistance air.. Had a megger CM500 for years (original MFT?) which was a great tool, but the rotary selector got a bit iffy and meggers attitude with their enormous "standard repair fee" was that I should bin it and buy a new one which annoyed me so much for what I felt was repairable, I did and bought a metrel, £1k jobbie. 3 (theft) metrels later, 3rd was playing up at sub 3 years old, metrels 2 week turnaround plus rental added up to so much I just bought the cheap £500 martindale for about the same. Never really got on with it, supplied croc clips were thrown in the trash on day 1 and after a couple of years it got to the point I didn't trust what it was telling despite calibration. And thats no good for anything let alone fault finding, which I find myself doing much of. So I went back to megger and just accepted we live in the use-it-and-bin-it age, once you do its far and away the best instrument I've used.

I like what the guy above said about password protection though - really annoys me with such a specialised, serialised piece of kit that requires calibration through limited operators that stolen kit cant be traced.
 

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