View the thread, titled "Outside lights - SWA junction boxes" which is posted in Australia on Electricians Forums.

rick

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Arms
I’ve just got a job to install some outside lights. The plan is to run SWA the length of the garden with five lights along the wall. I was going to run the SWA up to just under each light, then use an adaptable box and connect each light fitting up with rubber flex. But I think it might look neater to keep the SWA at low-level and connect the lights with the rubber flex in conduit, so the junction boxes are less visible.

What am I am not sure about is what boxes I could use in either scenario, and whether it’s OK to do the latter option (in effect how long can the flex of the light fitting be). Really appreciate some advice as this will be my first decent job in SWA and I’m unsure of the best ways to do the junctions.
 
Problem you have with a conduit is water penetration you could use a bit of flexible YY cable , the one with the braide armour , its going to be tight but you can get em in just have to be very acurate with the snips
 
use a galve y box armoured in and out then stuffing gland with flex to lights ,seals,lids etc, if worried about water getting in buy some resin fill the box water proof or get one of those new resin joints


Ide do that personally if you can do it on the back of the wall even better and drill though.

A
 
SWA to points around the garden, then black rubber flex off to lights. If the flex is above ground you've taken care not to leave it open to damage. And I'd recommend push fit connectors
 
In the past I've installed 5amp round pin Lewden sockets and plugs looks very neat and tidy, as you can unstopper the top spout and have the cable running directly through the besa box. Alternatively a 3 way Prately box with both SWA terminated into it then a stuffing gland in the top spout with a bit of HI TUF to the Lewden socket :D
 
hi
I do a fair bit of outside lighting and have to agree with nick blake, i run SWA into galv t boxes with lids , resin and seals then us FP cable as its weather proof and stays what shape you put it in with coated p clips and sealing gland into the t box
 
i'd have to say my preferred option when wiring lighting in swa is instead of an adaptable box use a master seal socket, make off your connections as if you were feeding a socket circuit, and wire the lights on to a 13A plug top.

This way allows individual lights to be isolated, or removed completely with out affecting the rest of the install, it also allows easier fault finding should a problem occur.

unfortunately it will add about £20 per point to the install cost.
Most practical way of connection,shame these nice looking light fittings have no easy method of connecting swa's.
 
Think we can lay this thread to rest as it is 6yrs old, a new thread can be started if any member wishes to which will be more up to date with options and products available. :)
 

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