PAT testing a toaster

[zap]

Greetings,
I'm pat testing a toaster which requires it to be plugged into a socket to switch it on.
The pat tester (ParkerBell PAC 500 XP) requires the appliance to be switched on.
I've tested it without switching it on i.e. without pressing the lever which inserts the bread.
Can anyone tell me if the toaster has been tested or what I should do to complete the test.
Thanks for any input.

 

[stef]

You can do the earth continuity test without being switched on, this is probably the most important test. You should be able to do the load thes then, note on the test form you weren't able to domthe IR test due to the appliances design.
Another way is doing a manual test using dog standard LR /IR test instrument.

 

[i=p/u]

why not just puxh the lever down, just like you push the kettle button to carry out tests..

 

[zap]

Thanks for that. As the toaster required power to latch the mechanism I wasn't sure if holding the lever down would work. So I tested for continuity across L&N when operating the lever and it worked. The test was successful and I'm confident that I've tested the appliance properly. Thanks again.

 

[oldtimer]

Yep hold the lever down my KT71 PAT tester does a pretest before the IR test and it indicates a fail as it senses the unit is not switched on

 

[wildgoose]

Agreed - if you hold the lever down manually, then the tester thinks it is switched on and will therefore will continue with the PAT.

 

[i=p/u]

what about earth leakage with class 11 items???? with the kt71

 

[oldtimer]

As discussed in the other post class II debate you are meant to clip the earth lead to a metal part of the equipment and yes it does the same on the IR test it senses the unit is on before it starts the IR test if not on it flags a fail and not on message

 

[i=p/u]

im messing around with mine today, suprises me the amount of messing around i was doing= didnt really bother to work out how it works inside out..

 

[i=p/u]

oldtimer do you charge more for microwaves and appliances connected by fused spur????? dismantling time

 

[oldtimer]

talking about microwaves when testing open the door ie the light goes on so when you plug it in the tester senses it on. Plus I throw in a free leakage test as well as for fixed appliances I have not come across many and the ones i have i cannot get access to.

Anyway if you have a tester then make a cup of tea and test it in the house then you can figure out the class II debate

 

[i=p/u]

say again old boy:49:

 

[telectrix]

personally, i'd rather toast a PAT tester (apologies to all the consciencious PAT testers out there, i mean the 70p sticker brigade)

 

[oldtimer]

say again old boy:49:

Its like drawing teeth with you I take it you you have purchased a KT71 tester yes then you know how to do a class one ie plug it in the clip your earth to the metal casing. tester does
1. Earth test
2.Senses unit is switched on
3. IR test

Class II
1. Senses unit is on
2. IR test but here is the catch if there is a bit of metal ie a hot air gun then you clip the earth lead to the metal tip to ensure no leakage but with an all plastic hoover or mains adaptor you are meant to brush your earth lead against the equipment if you dont everything gets passed and you have just injected 500vdc for nothing.

Try this out in your house ie plug the hoover in dont switch it on set tester to Class II then push test the unit will indicate that the hoover is not on

 

[i=p/u]

right i test my tumble tryer and goes like this

earth continuity then IR, then to do leakage you have to hold select button and turn dial back to class1 then put the earth clip back on to pass continuity then hit start button again to get the power used and earth leakage

is this right, i thought done all tests at once without messing around with the dial