Phasing nightmare | Page 7 | on ElectriciansForums
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Discuss Phasing nightmare in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

you clearly are not a trained mechanic :/
for starters.... a starter motor doesnt ignite fuel..... it only spins the engine fast enough for the combustion of the fuel/air mix to ignite, meaning the 'engine' takes over (starter 0-600RPM, engine 400RPM+)
the starter has to overpower the engine when the pressure gets to its peak.... ie at BTDC where chamber pressures will not be as great as when the engine is running through combustion but still pretty high and the faster the engine spins the higher those pressures get but luckily they will be met for a shorter period the more RPMS the engine is turning at
why do you think when you start your car up it sounds more like a 'pulse' than a smooth turning motion...... the drop is the high pressures 'slowing' the motor or.... putting load on it

You're obviously a brilliant mechanic!
Try an engine forum, you may have more success there with your ideas. :smilielol5:
 
it only spins the engine fast enough for the combustion of the fuel/air mix to ignite, meaning the 'engine' takes over (starter 0-600RPM, engine 400RPM+)[/quote ]
It would be unusual for a starter motor to turn the engine at anything like 600rpm - a couple of hundred would be a more probable max.
No, I'm not a trained mechanic but I've been a petrolhead all my life. There are very few parts on a car that I have not stripped down, refurbished, or replaced. Including grinding down cam follower spacers on my first car which had an overhead cam shaft engine. Developed from the Coventry Climax.
Sometimes this knowledge has been used - and abused. Unreasonable expectations.

Perhaps the worst was on my cousin's old Rover 75. One of the half elliptic spring rear leaf springs (think horse drawn cart) had a broken element. I replaced the entire spring. On my own. It needed a few strategically place jacks to relieve the tension so that I could remove bolts. It was challenge and a risky operation with the potential to get seriously hurt. It didn't make it any easier that it was outside on new years day, freezing cold, and snow on the ground. And all the others had baggered off to see a bl00dy football match.

I mention this not to blow my own trumpet - as I reflect back now it probably wasn't one of my most prudent undertakings. The point is I do know a bit about vehicle mechanics.
So give up with the bullshyte.
It won't work with me.
 
There are very few parts on a car that I have not stripped down, refurbished, or replaced. Including grinding down cam follower spacers on my first car which had an overhead cam shaft engine. Developed from the Coventry Climax.

Hillman imp then ?
 
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it only spins the engine fast enough for the combustion of the fuel/air mix to ignite, meaning the 'engine' takes over (starter 0-600RPM, engine 400RPM+)[/quote ]
It would be unusual for a starter motor to turn the engine at anything like 600rpm - a couple of hundred would be a more probable max.
No, I'm not a trained mechanic but I've been a petrolhead all my life. There are very few parts on a car that I have not stripped down, refurbished, or replaced. Including grinding down cam follower spacers on my first car which had an overhead cam shaft engine. Developed from the Coventry Climax.
Sometimes this knowledge has been used - and abused. Unreasonable expectations.

Perhaps the worst was on my cousin's old Rover 75. One of the half elliptic spring rear leaf springs (think horse drawn cart) had a broken element. I replaced the entire spring. On my own. It needed a few strategically place jacks to relieve the tension so that I could remove bolts. It was challenge and a risky operation with the potential to get seriously hurt. It didn't make it any easier that it was outside on new years day, freezing cold, and snow on the ground. And all the others had baggered off to see a bl00dy football match.

I mention this not to blow my own trumpet - as I reflect back now it probably wasn't one of my most prudent undertakings. The point is I do know a bit about vehicle mechanics.
So give up with the bullshyte.
It won't work with me.


ok, next time your in the car, turn the key again when the engine is running, youll see that itll drop from about 800rpm (after the choke is off) to about 600rpm.... but i wouldnt advise this due to wearing both alternator and starter solenoid
 
Have you time warped here from the early 70s?

60's mate, that's where I have been for the last couple of months, I got some flux capacitors on the special from RS, I put 1GW through them from my stack of car batteries and got lost, I had to charge each one up from my 12V alternator to get back to the here and now, oh! and I met this weird Polish bloke and an Old Jag lover who helped me. lol
 
Aside from this thread being mildly amusing, what a crock of shyte.

If anyone on here knew how to do what you are asking for they:

a) wouldn't pass that information for free.
b) wouldn't be on here, instead probably on their own private island sat on the billions they have made in royalties.


Get your head out of your ---.
 
b) wouldn't be on here, instead probably on their own private island sat on the billions they have made in royalties.


Damn, been found out.

Put some more Dollars on the fire and let's get this Beach party rocking.
 
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its an underground house build with concrete NO bricks, more stable that way and more robust (added mesh) so in fact the above ground building will have a 10M deep foundation, possible of holding a 12 storey flat..... in theory.
it would be built in stages starting at the bottom..... foundation, then build the rooms from wooden boards and help in place with scaffold poles and whatever else necessary to hold it together during the curing and drying of the concrete around it (then removed, leaving concrete walls and ceiling), then the same again for the floors above, the only brickwork will be the above ground entrance and garage (plus the power house, which will have a fan on a flat roof to suck the air out and a filter membrane side wall for air coming in(length or the building))

i would include a picture, but i cant 'url' it to a picture on my pc :/



You'll still need columns or floor to ceiling supporting walls in the basement etc, concrete floors can only span certain distances without support. So i'm not sure where you'll be able to fit this extra large swimming pool within the basement. I can't see your posted pictures so i can't see any dimensions as the pictures are far too small to even enlarge without total blurring!!
 
thats where you are wrong ...... the equipment is above ground..... the pool is below ground meaning itll need more 'power' to pump the water up
3 x 24KW heating pumps...... 72KW
2 x 3KW filter pumps...... 6KW Krystal Clear Pump and Filter Set 0.95hp pump with 7.9m3 per hour flow rate - Model 3 [Krystal Clear Pump Filter Model3] - ÂŁ345.00 :
1 x water treatment monitor 3KW
5 x dehumidifiers 9KW Meaco 800i Range Pool Dehumidifiers [Meaco 800i] - ÂŁ3,633.27 :

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AT PRESENT, there is no way to make anything which is 100% efficient, let alone 500%. You can't fit a quart into a pint pot, nor can you get a quart out of a pint pot.
Sorry but there is no way to change the laws of physics. Not yet anyway.


..... or two borrels o' dog oot of one borrel. :)
 
....NOW THEN,i think i have a way the OP can store and use power,not supplied by the grid. In one of my many,zany college projects,i made a generator,which was driven by the "stored" energy in a suspended weight. This was hoisted up 4 sliders via a chain and crank,and used good old gravity to descend and drive a simple gearbox through speed control system no more complicated than centrifugal fly-bobs and a friction collar. This regulated speed,and therefore frequency fairly well,and although its' output was around 1200 watts,you could scale it up to suit your needs. This giant concrete house sounds very heavy,and if you diaphragm walled it to lower level,augered piles at each corner and set bearing stanchions at each corner,you could construct your dream home off a ring beam foundation,secured to bearings at each post. The amount of energy stored in your given mass,in addition to the height raised,and frictional losses,of course,would give you the maximum driving torque available. This would be constant,and as long as loaded,would enable you to calculate the largest possible alternator it could reliably power. Now,all that is left for you to source is a reliable means of hoisting your "mass" or house,in order to keep things running....may i be so bold as to suggest a large handle,and if you are struggling to see what would be winding it up,look no further than the last 9 pages of this post. AND,it was all free and green. :bow:
 
ah but a 12v starter only ignites the fuel so it doent need to be powerful enough to turn the engine because it doesnt.

it works by expanding gases when fuel is compressed/ignited depending on petrol or diesel

Why does a starter motor have a cog which connects to the teeth around the edge of the flywheel then?
 
Michael, what they have been getting at over the last 9 pages but have failed to mention, is that electricity wastes a lot of energy in heat (amounst other things). Any motor / transformer etc gets hot, that's energy loss. It's an unwanted part of either converting voltage (transformers) or converting electricity to motion (motors). You most likely have a phone charger (transformer) or drill (motor) there you can check, it will get hot / warm during use. This is energy loss and the reason your ideas won't work. Something small like a phone charger doesn't use much power so doesn't generate much heat, but a larger transformer would.
 

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