Pictures of Board work

[casperLennon]

Someone posted a thread about showing pictures of boards the other day. Here is one I saw today. Brand new install by an electrician apparently with 20+ years experience

 

[Ian1981]

Currently bs7671 Is the minimum standard for safety in electrical installations, if you want to go above and beyond and install fire seals that's upto you

 

[davesparks]

Currently bs7671 Is the minimum standard for safety in electrical installations, if you want to go above and beyond and install fire seals that's upto you

Good point, and one I have lost focus on in this question.

However it takes more than a sticky pad to achieve a good fire seal.

 

[Billsays]

Currently bs7671 Is the minimum standard for safety in electrical installations, if you want to go above and beyond and install fire seals that's upto you

True, the Regulations are a guide for the competent. And the absolute bible for others.
I just can't see how putting up a 3rd amendment metal ccu with a big hole in the back, lining up with a big hole in the wall satisfys the Regs.
You would always put fire breaks in metal Trunking going through floors in blocks of flats, and make good around the outside, so why not in a house or flat?

 

[davesparks]

True, the Regulations are a guide for the competent. And the absolute bible for others.
I just can't see how putting up a 3rd amendment metal ccu with a big hole in the back, lining up with a big hole in the wall satisfys the Regs.
You would always put fire breaks in metal Trunking going through floors in blocks of flats, and make good around the outside, so why not in a house or flat?

It satisfies the regs because the regs only require it to be manufactured from a non-combustible material, without any definition of non-combustible. There is no requirement for the CU to be fire-proof or for holes in it to be made fire-proof, just a requirement for the casing of the CU to not readily catch fire.

The problem is that no material is truly non-combustible, every material is combustible at the right temperature.
For example steel will combust if exposed to a high enough temperature and supplied with oxygen, such as in the flame of an oxy-fuel cutting torch which cuts steel by burning it.

The problem of the hole in to the cavity is a separate matter, and dealt with by a separate regulation. There is a regulation which require that penetrations through a fire barrier be made good, again an intumescent pad is unlikely to satisfy this and a proper fire sealing method should be used to fill the hole.

 

[Midwest]

Interesting debate; that Darren Stantiforth (NICEIC) stated the exact opposite (during a Wire broadcast), that the concept of ferrous metal CU, was to remove the fuel (i.e. plastic) for a fire, and not necessarily to contain any such fire.

Whereas those grown ups at the IET, state it is to contain a fire as is reasonably practicable; Consumer units - IET Electrical - http://electrical.------.org/wiring-matters/55/consumer-units/


Whilst leaving a gapping whole at the back of a A3 CU, will allow flames to escape, what about the flappy metal lid, and the plastic mcb's etc, hardly going to contain any such fire, although Wylex have seen a niche in the market; Wylex launch NMFS Intumescents to further enhance Consumer Unit Fire Safety - http://www.electrium.co.uk/news/wylex-launch-nmfs-intumescents-to-further-enhance-consumer-unit-fire-safety

Although Hager have defunct this as a myth;

MYTH: Glanding, trunking and intumescent strips are essential to contain a fire
FALSE: On a Hager consumer unit extensive testing has proved that none of these are required to contain a fire caused by a poor connection. However, trunking or glands may be required to achieve IP rating. We suggest the use of a cable protector plate or grommet strip and trunking. Intumescent materials are not required by the regulations; however their use is at the discretion of the installer.
(Mythbreakers story - http://www.hager.co.uk/news-exhibitions-case-studies/news/amendment-3-to-bs-7671-2008/latest-news/mythbreakers-story/56586.htm)

Wish someone would make their minds up, so we are all singing from the same hymn sheet, and installing the same kit. What about installing a sprinkler system near a CU

 

[Leesparkykent]

This is my second year apprentices work....not bad imo apart from the cable tie bunching the line conductors.

 

[Pete999]

This is my second year apprentices work....not bad imo apart from the cable tie bunching the line conductors.

View attachment 37610

View attachment 37611

Very nice

 

[Leesparkykent]

Very nice

Cheers Pete....He's going to make a good electrician

 

[Pete999]

Cheers Pete....He's going to make a good electrician

Hope so

 

[Squid]

This is my second year apprentices work....not bad imo apart from the cable tie bunching the line conductors.

View attachment 37610

View attachment 37611

Earths and Neutrals should be at the same length and too much bare metal showing on the Neutral feeds, nice try though better luck next time........


Nah only kidding good job and well done.

 

[Dave OCD]

Honestly Lee that would be a very good job done by an experienced Sparks let alone a year two apprentice. I think he'd show up a few round these parts.

 

[sam400]

That's very neat, Good job! can he give me a few pointers? Lol

 

[SparkyChick]

So this is the DB for the outhouse renovations I've been working on.

There's no bonding needed (no extraneous conductive parts), supply CPC is the armour of the SWA supplying the building, switching to 6mm T+E in a IP rated box on the outer wall with the T+E running in the corner safety zone (under capping).

So when I'm wiring boards, I always end up with a rats nest at the point of cable entry. Any advice/suggestions on how that can be improved/managed would be greatly appreciated. My feeling is (based on the fact the majority of the boards I've worked on have been using the rear cable entries) is this is just down to positioning and the fact that most of the cables enter in the same place.

This time around, I used a different strategy, instead of working circuit by circuit, I worked CPCs, neutrals and then finally popped the MCBs in and terminated the lines and I'm quite pleased with how this turned out, but as I'd like to improve... What strategies/sequencing do you guys use for connecting up at the board?

 

[telectrix]

What strategies/sequencing do you guys use for connecting up at the board?

I slap the lid on before anyone sees inside.

 

[Phil Thompson]

I use the BG dual RCD board mostly, and find it easier to keep cables tidy by doing neutral, earth, live and starting at the farthest Circuit from the main switch, working backwards, so the last circuit connected will be the one nearest the main switch.
So the last conductor connected following the N,E&L method would be the line to position 1 on RCD1 or Main Switch.