Secondary Switchboard for kitchen from Primary Switchboard | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Secondary Switchboard for kitchen from Primary Switchboard in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

F

frarex

I am currently working on my kitchen and I am centralising the switches for all appliances (Fridge, 2 Ovens, Induction Hob, Hood, Dishwasher, Washing Machine, boiler and counter sockets) on a secondary switchboard.

In order to do that I am running a 6mm multi-thread cable from the main switchboard (with a circuit breaker of 100Amp) to a secondary switchboard (with a circuit breaker of 40Amp).

The 6mm cables I am using are FG7(O)R that are supposed to carry around 50 Amp.

1) The person that recommended this setting says that the 6mm cable is absolutely fine to feed the secondary switchboard and that 40 amp are enough for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen without the circuit breaker jumping.

2) Because I want to get the electrics certified I spoke with an electrician and he told me that the 6mm cable is not enough and 40 Amp for the kitchen might not be enough. He is reccomending a 25mm cables from the primary switchboard to the secondary switchboard with earth on a 10mm cable coming form the main earth.

I got two concerns:

1. I am a bit puzzled, before I changed the kitchen I had two 2.5 mm cables going into the kitchen that were running a similar number of appliances therefore I thought that a 6mm multi-thread cable was actually oversized to run the appliances.

2. Are the 40 amp of the secondary switchboard circuit breaker enough for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen considering that the induction hob at full capacity uses 28 amp and that I might run washing machine (13 amp) dishwasher (13 amp) oven (15 amp) at the same time without considering boiler and fridge that might start at any time?

To be honest 25mm cables seem a bit too big to feed the secondary switchboard... but will a 6mm cable be enough? What if I start using the secondary switchboard and I realise I need a 60 amp breaker instead of the 40amp one?



Any suggestion about what I should do and who is right?

Thank you for your answers and apologies if similar question have been posted before, I tried to search the forum but I could not find anything relevant.
 
Why do you want or need a sub-distribution board in the kitchen in the first place?? Oh by the way, they are both Wrong, find a fully qualified electrician that actually knows what he's doing!!
 
Hello mate,

I dont wish to pee on your bonfire, but, by the way you have worded your post, i know that you have neither the knowledge or experience to do this job. Your electrician has given you some good advice, my suggestion about what you should do, is get the electrician back, and ask him to do the job for you, before you make a pigs ear of it, and either kill or injure yourself or someone else, or burn the place down. This electric lark is not rocket science, but it has to be done properly.

Cheers............Howard
 
Why do you want or need a sub-distribution board in the kitchen in the first place?? Oh by the way, they are both Wrong, find a fully qualified electrician that actually knows what he's doing!!

Because I think it is tidier to have all switches in one place and also I am having a glass splashback and it would not look as nice with holes for the switches for the various appliances.

BTW I am not that experienced with electrics however I can use common sense and I am doing some research to improve my knowledge although still poor.

Any further comments are therefore welcome.
 
You could have a bank of grid switches, which could look better and be more accessible than having a separate consumer unit in your kitchen.
 
Because I think it is tidier to have all switches in one place and also I am having a glass splashback and it would not look as nice with holes for the switches for the various appliances.

BTW I am not that experienced with electrics however I can use common sense and I am doing some research to improve my knowledge although still poor.

Any further comments are therefore welcome.

So for what purpose do you need a separate CU in the kitchen, surely not to use the MCB's as switches??

Ahhhh!! You mean your more interested in what the kitchen looks like, than it actually functioning as a kitchen!! I take it, you don't want to see any socket outlets above the worktop for general kitchen appliances either?(kettle/toaster/coffee machine etc)!! Don't tell me, they will all be fitted in the cabinets. lol!!

Think you've been watching too many TV hairy fairy designer home improvement programmes. Where they seem to forget that kitchens are WORK areas, not a TV show area!!
 
Aesthetics and incompetence V’s practicality. Hands down winner for the former.

Get a qualified electrician before you make some expensive impractical mistakes!
 
Why do you want or need a sub-distribution board in the kitchen in the first place?? Oh by the way, they are both Wrong, find a fully qualified electrician that actually knows what he's doing!!

Because I think it is tidier to have all switches in one place and also I am having a glass splashback and it would not look as nice with holes for the switches for the various appliances.

BTW I am not that experienced with electrics however I can use common sense and I am doing some research to improve my knowledge although still poor.

Any further comments are therefore welcome.

If you aren't experienced, then I would suggest you get someone in who is, not something you can just google the answer for, there are many variables from what size cable to installation method to breaker sizes etc all need to be worked out and not guessed because you don't think it's necessary
 
So for what purpose do you need a separate CU in the kitchen, surely not to use the MCB's as switches??

Ahhhh!! You mean your more interested in what the kitchen looks like, than it actually functioning as a kitchen!! I take it, you don't want to see any socket outlets above the worktop for general kitchen appliances either?(kettle/toaster/coffee machine etc)!! Don't tell me, they will all be fitted in the cabinets. lol!!

Think you've been watching too many TV hairy fairy designer home improvement programmes. Where they seem to forget that kitchens are WORK areas, not a TV show area!!

I believed it was a better solution, neater because all switches are in one place and I can house the CU inside a cabinet.

The motivation was both functional and aesthetic as the kitchen is open plan.

In the continent people do not put switches and fuses for each appliance as well as they do not do rings. The circuit is radial running a cable from the main switchboard to the appliance or socket.

I was reading somewhere that the practice to do rings is typical of the uk and that radial circuits are safer.

Re. plugs... you are close, lol, I found some plugs that get mounted underneath the wall cabinets and one of them will be mounted on the worktop.

I am trying to do something safe, practical and aesthetic.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR COMMENTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS. Please keep them coming, I need to find a suitable solution.

So far I understand that general consensus is:

6mm cable from main CU is too small
25mm cable from main CU is too big

A 10mm cable should be enough to feed the secondary CU

40 Amp Circuit breaker on the secondary CU should suffice for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen


PS No, no do not watch TV... I am originally Italian though and we probably got a chip to make things look nice.
 
I believed it was a better solution, neater because all switches are in one place and I can house the CU inside a cabinet.

The motivation was both functional and aesthetic as the kitchen is open plan.

In the continent people do not put switches and fuses for each appliance as well as they do not do rings. The circuit is radial running a cable from the main switchboard to the appliance or socket.

I was reading somewhere that the practice to do rings is typical of the uk and that radial circuits are safer.

Re. plugs... you are close, lol, I found some plugs that get mounted underneath the wall cabinets and one of them will be mounted on the worktop.

I am trying to do something safe, practical and aesthetic.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR COMMENTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS. Please keep them coming, I need to find a suitable solution.

So far I understand that general consensus is:

6mm cable from main CU is too small
25mm cable from main CU is too big

A 10mm cable should be enough to feed the secondary CU

40 Amp Circuit breaker on the secondary CU should suffice for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen


PS No, no do not watch TV... I am originally Italian though and we probably got a chip to make things look nice.

You need to find a competent Electrician matey.,
 
I believed it was a better solution, neater because all switches are in one place and I can house the CU inside a cabinet.

Though this is a fairly common practice for commercial establishments, it's not a by any means a good practice especially for domestic installations, and the idea should be forgotten...

The motivation was both functional and aesthetic as the kitchen is open plan.

In the continent people do not put switches and fuses for each appliance as well as they do not do rings. The circuit is radial running a cable from the main switchboard to the appliance or socket.

Forget the continent, you are working to BS7671 in the UK. Rings and radials both have their place in kitchen installations and both are completely safe when installed correctly by competent electricians. You'll find that most socket MCB's on the continent are also Double Pole, which they are not in the UK. Don't try and emulate another countries standards, when you don't fully understand them.

I was reading somewhere that the practice to do rings is typical of the uk and that radial circuits are safer.

Then you have been reading rubbish!! lol!!

Re. plugs... you are close, lol, I found some plugs that get mounted underneath the wall cabinets and one of them will be mounted on the worktop.

Well i'm glad to hear that your not hiding sockets for small appliances in the cabinets, that would be waiting for an accident to happen!!

I am trying to do something safe, practical and aesthetic.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR COMMENTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS. Please keep them coming, I need to find a suitable solution.

So far I understand that general consensus is:

6mm cable from main CU is too small
25mm cable from main CU is too big

A 10mm cable should be enough to feed the secondary CU

40 Amp Circuit breaker on the secondary CU should suffice for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen


PS No, no do not watch TV... I am originally Italian though and we probably got a chip to make things look nice.

Again, as others have told you, get your actual installation advice from a qualified, competent and experienced electrician. And for gods sake forget about using MCB's as your appliance switches, their are other methods to achieve what your wanting to do!!
 
when you say "underneath the wall cupboards", i sincerely hope you mean on the wall and not fixed to the cupboards themselves!.
 
I would take all feeds from your original fuseboard to a grid switch in the kitchen, scrap the local fuseboard and click do I nice range of modules to mix and match and if your not sure get someone in it will cost alot more if you undersize or miss a cable out!!
 
Yes Ian, Keniff was starting to give advice and I was tempted to comment like you did.
There are times to advise and times advisable not to.

Boydy
 
when you say "underneath the wall cupboards", i sincerely hope you mean on the wall and not fixed to the cupboards themselves!.




I ''think'' he means something along the lines of one of these.... Fixing to wall and wall cabinet. He would better off using the trunking rather than the individual modules. He can then mount and change position of outlets as and where required. My even be able to fit his grid type switches using one of these systems too...

Marshall Tufflex> Home > Cable Management > Domestic / Commercial Trunking > Bench Trunking

Marshall Tufflex> Home > Cable Management > Domestic / Commercial Trunking > Bench Trunking

Not sure if he is thinking along the lines of the ''pop-up'' worktop fitted socket outlets?? I hope not, they are basically just a fancy extension lead affair
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds more like he wants to do it his way and stuff the regs
LOL it sounds like one of those threads which goes:
"can I do this?"
"not really, no - there are much better ways of doing it"
"yes but can I do this?"
"it's really not a good idea"
"but do the regs expressly forbid it?"
"the regs don't work like that"
"so there's nothing which says I can't do it?"
"sigh."

Apparently in Italy you can't use several appliances at the same time without it all tripping out. They just seem to accept it as a fact of life.
 
I ''think'' he means something along the lines of one of these.... Fixing to wall and wall cabinet. He would better off using the trunking rather than the individual modules. He can then mount and change position of outlets as and where required. My even be able to fit his grid type switches using one of these systems too...

Marshall Tufflex> Home > Cable Management > Domestic / Commercial Trunking > Bench Trunking

Marshall Tufflex> Home > Cable Management > Domestic / Commercial Trunking > Bench Trunking

Not sure if he is thinking along the lines of the ''pop-up'' worktop fitted socket outlets?? I hope not, they are basically just a fancy extension lead affair


Engineer I reckon he means these

Under Cabinet Sockets in DIY Electrical Fittings | eBay
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I am currently working on my kitchen and I am centralising the switches for all appliances (Fridge, 2 Ovens, Induction Hob, Hood, Dishwasher, Washing Machine, boiler and counter sockets) on a secondary switchboard.

In order to do that I am running a 6mm multi-thread cable from the main switchboard (with a circuit breaker of 100Amp) to a secondary switchboard (with a circuit breaker of 40Amp).

The 6mm cables I am using are FG7(O)R that are supposed to carry around 50 Amp.

1) The person that recommended this setting says that the 6mm cable is absolutely fine to feed the secondary switchboard and that 40 amp are enough for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen without the circuit breaker jumping.

2) Because I want to get the electrics certified I spoke with an electrician and he told me that the 6mm cable is not enough and 40 Amp for the kitchen might not be enough. He is reccomending a 25mm cables from the primary switchboard to the secondary switchboard with earth on a 10mm cable coming form the main earth.

I got two concerns:

1. I am a bit puzzled, before I changed the kitchen I had two 2.5 mm cables going into the kitchen that were running a similar number of appliances therefore I thought that a 6mm multi-thread cable was actually oversized to run the appliances.

2. Are the 40 amp of the secondary switchboard circuit breaker enough for a normal use of the appliances in the kitchen considering that the induction hob at full capacity uses 28 amp and that I might run washing machine (13 amp) dishwasher (13 amp) oven (15 amp) at the same time without considering boiler and fridge that might start at any time?

To be honest 25mm cables seem a bit too big to feed the secondary switchboard... but will a 6mm cable be enough? What if I start using the secondary switchboard and I realise I need a 60 amp breaker instead of the 40amp one?



Any suggestion about what I should do and who is right?

Thank you for your answers and apologies if similar question have been posted before, I tried to search the forum but I could not find anything relevant.


And we all missed the obvious. The OP is planning to protect the 50A cable, with a 100A MCB.
 
Thanks again for your replies.

I am now looking for an electrician to make sure that everything is ok...

In the meantime I run a 10mm2 (64A) cable from the main CU, to the secondary CU, I will probably start using it with the 40A breaker and if it jumps too easily I will change it with a 63A breaker.

FYI The under cabinet sockets I got are:

Double socket | Häfele UK Ltd

Other issue is:
- the person that designed the kitchen cabling did the sockets as "radial" (i.e. one cable to the CU for each plug) rather than "ring". We meant to use a box (which is difficult to find) to connect (with a 6mm cable) the 7 sockets to a 32A switch. The first electrician that came around to have a look said that that radial is not possible in the UK because ring is the standard and if I want do do it radial I need a switch in the CU for each plug. Is this correct?

Radial systems should be more secure, because if the ring breaks the a 2.5 mm cable might overheat... somewhere I read that that is one reason why fires because of electric faults are more common in the UK than in other countries.

The Uk is the only country where "rings" are used.
 

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