Stripped thread on metal back box....aaaggghhh!

[Jim The Fish]

Hi everyone,

Just finnished 2nd fixing a rewire and I have found one of the back boxes for the cooker panel has stripped it's thread on the non adjustable side of the box, my normal course Of action would be to replace the box as it's the non adjustable side but there is a pair of 10 mm s in there and it has been tiled in so the box isn't coming out without a headache. I was thinking of drilling out the old thread and then sticking a nut to the back of the lug with theold thread in to give me something to screw the plate screw into, just wondered if anybody out there had any cunning methdods of getting aroun this situation.

Cheers in advance for any help.

 

[pennywise]

Use a 3.5mm tap.

 

[Guest123]

Will a socket re-threader like pennywise posted not work???

 

[pennywise]

If the thread has gone past the point of being re taped, I usually get a plaster depth 16mm galv back box take one of the oval knock outs drill through either end with a 4mm bit, bend the knackered lug flush with the box, drill two 3mm holes in the back of the box that correspond with the two on the knock out, tap them screw the knock out to the back of the box with shortened 3.5 screws, in line with where the faceplate screw falls normally then drill a third hole in the centre of the knock out thread it, then use a 75mm 3.5 screw as normal. hope that makes slight sense.

 

[rocker]

If the thread has gone past the point of being re taped, I usually get a plaster depth 16mm galv back box take one of the oval knock outs drill through either end with a 4mm bit, bend the knackered lug flush with the box, drill two 3mm holes in the back of the box that correspond with the two on the knock out, tap them screw the knock out to the back of the box with shortened 3.5 screws, in line with where the faceplate screw falls normally then drill a third hole in the centre of the knock out thread it, then use a 75mm 3.5 screw as normal. hope that makes slight sense.

What a good idea

 

[acat]

Terrific solution


Chris

 

[pennywise]

It isn't elegant but it works

 

[barx]

Just squeeze the lug closed a bit with your best pliers then the threader will take. No drilling involved. lol

 

[nickblake]

I have in the past put a removable lug behind the fixed lug ,bit like a nut and bolt that has worked for me fiddly to get in ,bitch for the next person to refix the socket

 

[mogga]

penny could you put a wee vidio guide on lol Used that method a couple of times but bits a bit of a horses backside when you have to use 100mm and an extension due to box depth

 

[pennywise]

I only use this technique when the back box in question has holes in the back of it which line up with the lugs, if there is solid metal on the back of the box I usually just drill and tap the back of the box and use 75mm or extension lugs I've used a solid back one here as I don't have the other type

 

[Des 56]

A very good standard of repair in that picture

Another method, cowboyish compared to that example, but it will work, is to glue a new lug onto the back of the old,using a socket screw to keep it in position

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Sometimes an old imperial thread screw will 'take' in a stripped lug.....the thread is slightly coarser.
I always save a few when we do a rewire with pre-70's accessories.

 

[PJK]

On occassions when this has happened to me, I have got away with wrapping the thread of the screw with PTFE tape and it usually grips enough to hold the accessaory safe and secure. You will not be able to tighten it up 'plumber tight' though.

 

[Notsosmart]

Looks reasonable Pennywise ~ Almost professional!

I have used a 3mm clinch nut tapped to 3.5mm before

(Ok if you own a clinch nut set, otherwise a bit expensive)