Surface mounting threads for switch plate screws are wrung off.

[StepOne]

Hi everyone,

As you know each surface mount box for a lighting switch has two threaded metal tabs for the screws to attach the front switch plate. On one of our boxes the threads have been wrung off and as a result the screws no longer tighten.

Is there a solution to this problem, without having to digout and replace the box?

Many thanks for any helpyou may be able to provide.

 

[NDG Elecs]

Yikes 2 x £4.99 plus VAT. Couple of M3 nuts 0.5p!

Yikes indeed! I was tempted to buy some to keep in the van, but at that price.....! Hell no!

 

[slingshot2000]

Yikes 2 x £4.99 plus VAT. Couple of M3 nuts 0.5p!

Exactly; but I use 3.5mm nuts, as that is the same thread as the accessory screws !

 

[PEG]

There are many ways around this relatively easy problem. Most lads,with a dabble of engineering ability,will have found their own method of overcoming,what is a fairly regular thing to encounter.

The peening,or tightening of the original tabs,is usually the easiest method.

If you are ---- enough (that's me...) and half handy with a grinder/MIG,a cracking little tool can be constructed,for just this task.

Get a 10mm ball bearing,and cut it in half,using a mini grinder,with a 1mm slitting disc. Get a mid sized set of vise grips,Aldi ones will do,and Mig spot the ball bearing halves,on to the tips of the grips,so both hemispherical profiles, meet. Dress the front aspects,with a grinder.

A squeeze with these,usually closes the original tapped tab,to either be re-tapped,or function without any further effort.

I was brought up,gunsmithing,on all types of firearms and air-rifles,and a basic part of this trade,is making your own tools,and making tools,to do a specific job.

It somewhat disappoints me,to see lads who have the science and maths of their trade sussed,have the people skills,the business acumen,the kit,the van,the advert.......and never find the need or want,to bring an upgrade in engineering aptitude,to the table.

Not aimed at anyone...just a rant...


Maybe i'm just bitter,coz i get the phone call to assist,from lazy pals,and off i go...buying grips in Aldi...and slicing ball-bearings :biggrinjester:

 

[slingshot2000]

Well, that is certainly a way I have never thought of while in a customer's house trying tog et finished so I can get home for my tea !

 

[sparksburnout]

Exactly; but I use 3.5mm nuts, as that is the same thread as the accessory screws !

Well 3.5 then can't remember now, bought a big bag of em ages ago.

 

[sparksburnout]

There are many ways around this relatively easy problem. Most lads,with a dabble of engineering ability,will have found their own method of overcoming,what is a fairly regular thing to encounter.

The peening,or tightening of the original tabs,is usually the easiest method.

If you are ---- enough (that's me...) and half handy with a grinder/MIG,a cracking little tool can be constructed,for just this task.

Get a 10mm ball bearing,and cut it in half,using a mini grinder,with a 1mm slitting disc. Get a mid sized set of vise grips,Aldi ones will do,and Mig spot the ball bearing halves,on to the tips of the grips,so both hemispherical profiles, meet. Dress the front aspects,with a grinder.

A squeeze with these,usually closes the original tapped tab,to either be re-tapped,or function without any further effort.

I was brought up,gunsmithing,on all types of firearms and air-rifles,and a basic part of this trade,is making your own tools,and making tools,to do a specific job.

It somewhat disappoints me,to see lads who have the science and maths of their trade sussed,have the people skills,the business acumen,the kit,the van,the advert.......and never find the need or want,to bring an upgrade in engineering aptitude,to the table.

Not aimed at anyone...just a rant...


Maybe i'm just bitter,coz i get the phone call to assist,from lazy pals,and off i go...buying grips in Aldi...and slicing ball-bearings :biggrinjester:

I've got this Sussed your having a giggle. You just want to picture as all fannying about in the workshop trying to cut ball bearings in half, swearing, bits flying all over the place, then trying to weld them onto a pair of cheap Chinese steel grips from Aldi. Won't a pair of mole grips or similar just do the same, then you can forget the 3 hours mucking about in the shed and go to the pub.

 

[ruston]

Cut a ball bearing in half! :dizzy2: I would rather read the politics thread.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

A standard pair of water pump/slip joint/nine hole/seven hole/etc pliers are usually all that is required to squash the tab back to flat. No need for cutting bearings in half.

 

[PEG]

A standard pair of water pump/slip joint/nine hole/seven hole/etc pliers are usually all that is required to squash the tab back to flat. No need for cutting bearings in half.

...I never suggested a need...just a want...as for struggling to cut yer bearing...simply Mig it to a bit of scrap,and slice away...30 seconds work

Your comments are duly noted...and,probably correct!

I seem to remember an engineering project,early in my formative years,where each student was required to design,draw out and manufacture,a manometer.

It consisted of a hardwood back panel,a brass graduated scale,rubber tubing and two glass tubes,secured with two steel strips with a curve at each end.

A basic jig was also part of the exam,to enable easy,repeat forming of the steel strips.

My jig was a master-piece. It was a lever operated,precision device,that took up two days of beavering,using ALL the workshop gear...lathe,shaper,Mig,Vertical miller...the lot.

On completion,our lecturer saved my assessment till last,announcing the "clip press" to be the most impressive attempt he had encountered...

He gave me 100%....and instantly deducted 10%...for "Gross,inappropriate and wanton waste of time,effort and materials..."

I took the 90%,and lost no sleep over it...as i will tonight :joker:

 

[thai3010]

Yikes 2 x £4.99 plus VAT. Couple of M3 nuts 0.5p!

I've tried this product and it worked a treat. It was a finished wall in a really expensive house, the only alternative to this would of been to rip the back box out and install a new one as the thread was completely stripped. Would of cost way more than the £5 so for me well worth it, would of paid more just not to have to install a new back box. I ordered more next time and got the discount on the 6 + purchases.

 

[Darkwood]

I've tried this product and it worked a treat. It was a finished wall in a really expensive house, the only alternative to this would of been to rip the back box out and install a new one as the thread was completely stripped. Would of cost way more than the £5 so for me well worth it, would of paid more just not to have to install a new back box. I ordered more next time and got the discount on the 6 + purchases.

Overpriced for what are, and considering a higher percentage of buggered threads will be on the adjustable lug not the fixed due to increased probability of cross threading on a loose terminal then I can't see how these would fit the various styles of adjustable lugs out there.

There is a simple method and tool to sorting stripped lugs out which serves for most occasions.

Re-inventing the wheel comes to mind here, it won't last long in the market especially at that price, Id expect a bag of 10 for that, and considering the frequency you would need or be able to use them I can't see them holding a steady market turnover once they have had there initial interest as a new product.

 

[Leesparkykent]

I've tried this product and it worked a treat. It was a finished wall in a really expensive house, the only alternative to this would of been to rip the back box out and install a new one as the thread was completely stripped. Would of cost way more than the £5 so for me well worth it, would of paid more just not to have to install a new back box. I ordered more next time and got the discount on the 6 + purchases.

Could of squeezed the lug in and re threaded the hole or failing that bent it back and drilled a 3mm hole at the back of the KO box, threaded the hole with a 3.5mm threader and used a longer screw.