View the thread, titled "SWA submain into plastic consumer unit?" which is posted in Australia on Electricians Forums.

B

BillyH

What options do i have for terminating a 16mm 3 core swa into a plastic consumer unit?
 
Nothing stopping you from connecting the SWA cable off directly to the plastic CU enclosure using banjo's or earthing nut's either. So long as the cable is fully supported by correctly sized cable cleats....
 
Personally i would never convert a SWA cable to T&E in an adaptable box in this circumstance. If you mount the metal adaptable box directly under the CU enclosure connected via plastic or metal coupling or other, you can then make your SWA termination off with a banjo or earthing nut to the box and take your conductors straight through to the CU, ....Sorted!!


As stated above, introducing unnecessary joints is never a good idea, especially when talking about the larger sized of domestic cables.

I've never seen street lighting with a means of earthing SWA cables without making use of a gland, and can't picture them either. you can't clamp them, without putting undue stress on the internal conductors. If anyone has a link to these accessories, i'd be interested to have a look at them.... Some of the worst corrosion i've seen on SWA cables have been at street lighting positions...

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...peWdCQ&usg=AFQjCNHl3HQiAKlC_wWmKpiQT7tFuxDr6A

some of the cutouts( try the link above), come with a cone attached, and you then use a jubilee clip to terminate the armour. Ive not used them, but been on jobs where they have been used. I dont like them either, but i also hate the indoor type glands, and use CW or E1W all of the time.
 
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E54, they are called CET glands and the SWA gets clamped up with built in jubilee clips. Have used them on pedestal boxes, feeder pillars etc and also lighting columns.
 
billyhas, you say the SWA will be in a partition wall at first fix, will the CU be mounted surface on the board afterwards, or will it be a flush fit?
 
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...peWdCQ&usg=AFQjCNHl3HQiAKlC_wWmKpiQT7tFuxDr6A

some of the cutouts( try the link above), come with a cone attached, and you then use a jubilee clip to terminate the armour. Ive not used them, but been on jobs where they have been used. I dont like them either, but i also hate the indoor type glands, and use CW or E1W all of the time.


Thanks johnboy, Yes i can understand what your talking about now!! lol! Think i would use a length of heatshrink, over a termination such as this. Don't think a normal shroud would suffice in conditions such as street lighting poles, which always tend to be damp in my experience...
 
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I never intended to join the cable. I just need to terminate through the back of a plastic consumer unit

Good to hear Billy, ..unnecessary joints are bad news at the best of times... I think you have more than enough acceptable alternatives now, on the best ways of how to terminate a SWA cable into your CU, so go get-um...lol!!
 
If you are planning to terminate through the back of the CU, I hope the stud wall is "thick" otherwise you'll have a devil of a job putting the correct radius/bend on the SWA even before you allow for the gland etc.
 
terminate into metal adaptable box, fixed flush into the stud wall with noginns top and bottom, leave the lid off and put the plasterboard on with the cables of your SWA coming through where you want, then you can surface mount the CU using the noggins top and bottom of the A/B as fixing points. simples
 
terminate into metal adaptable box, fixed flush into the stud wall with noginns top and bottom, leave the lid off and put the plasterboard on with the cables of your SWA coming through where you want, then you can surface mount the CU using the noggins top and bottom of the A/B as fixing points. simples

sounds like a PLAN. funny how it's only in post #25 that we find out he wants to come into the BACK of the CU!
 
sounds like a PLAN. funny how it's only in post #25 that we find out he wants to come into the BACK of the CU!
I apologise if there was any confusion but surely post #12 gave the info you thought was omitted until post #25.Please keep up
 
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