Switching a socket from light switch. | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Switching a socket from light switch. in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

G

gmanmanman

My friend has bought pre wired low voltage lights with the transformer on the plug, they are for the pelmet of his shower (they are correct IP raiting) he is wanting to control them from a light switch outside his bathroom. I take it I would need to fit a contactor to make this work? 6amp lighting circuit controling the contactor, live/neutral A1/A2. 32amp supply for the socket
If so what type of contactor, a 32amp double pole?

Cheers
 
radial from 6A MCB or RCBO if board has no RCD to unswitched fusespur, 3A fuse, from load side of FCU to double pole switch, double pole switch to single socket labelled "3A only" plug lights into socket. done.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
socket is going in a cupboard in the room behind the shower so there is no danger of water getting in the skt, I was planning on wiring a new radial ciruit from the board, there is space and I could clearly mark it as the shower lights. I was planning on using a contactor because I wouldn't be able to power a 13amp plug from a lighting circuit.

That sounds good to me :). New circuit from a 6A mcb on a rcd board marked up ad "bathroom skt lights". Putting the skt in the cupboard and switch outside the bathroom, happy days my friend, get it done.
 
So you're installing a new radial circuit from the CU, a socket in the next room, A 32 Amp contactor plus some kinda enclosure and you're running the control from the lighting switch. All this for some LED lights that probably draw less than an Amp.

Does your buddy know how much this is going to cost?

There's got to be a better way to do this. It would be a shrewd move to get someone who's qualified involved I think.
 
radial from 6A MCB or RCBO if board has no RCD to unswitched fusespur, 3A fuse, from load side of FCU to double pole switch, double pole switch to single socket labelled "3A only" plug lights into socket. done.

Sorry to disagree Jase but no need for a fused spur if the cable is 1.5mm from the cu and not a spur from the ring etc. Fused spurs are there to protect cable, not to protect lights in bathrooms.
 
i just thought that the rating of the transformer on this guys lights would be 3A. just a little extra protection but yes no need, in fact could just run a 2.5mm radial on a 16A straight out of board via DP switch into socket, that way if someone did plug anything other then the lights in future the circuit would handle the load
 
The most straightforward way is to do what Paul.m said with a labelled socket. However, if you are worried about the socket having something else plugged into it in the future, then what jase said using a new 16amp supply is ideal. Just make sure that the pullcord switch is 16amp double-pole and not a 6amp lighting one.
 
REMEMBER its notirfiable under part PEE you seem to be going to a lot of bother when taking your supply from the lighting circuit already there and sticking socket in cupboard would be sorted marked up SHOWER LIGHTS ONLY

best advice given so dfar tho is CALL a registered electrician
 
If safety is an issue which is impacting on the cost of the install, because of the need for spurs, contactors, switches, mcbs and radial circuits


Here is a cheaper alternative
[ElectriciansForums.net] Switching a socket from light switch.

20 Bulb Warm White Battery Operated LED Fairy Lights, Static - Lights 4 Fun
 
If the socket is in the bathroom (even in the cupboard) within 3m of the bath, doesn't it have to be inside an enclosure which requires a tool to open?

Seriously, this work is something that should definitely NOT be done by someone unqualified.
 
Erm, why not cut the plug off, wire the lights into the lighting circuit thats already got a switch.

If its not RCD protected then your onto a bonus by RCBO--ing the whole light circuit at the DB.


Of course someone will be ready to mention current reqs- all this assumes the requirement is low.
 
Erm, why not cut the plug off, wire the lights into the lighting circuit thats already got a switch.

If its not RCD protected then your onto a bonus by RCBO--ing the whole light circuit at the DB.


Of course someone will be ready to mention current reqs- all this assumes the requirement is low.

You might be onto something though, what about cutting off the tranny plug, and rewiring the lights into a standard SELV tranny that could be hidden up in the ceiling with the existing lighting wiring. Obviously, this will only work if the replacement tranny kicks out the required voltage/amperage, but its surely gotta be better than having a wire trailing to a socket, even if it is hidden.
 
That is another option that will work, just make sure the trany in the ceiling is accessible for maintenance, repair, testing and replacing.

How many more ways are there to install some fairy lights?
 

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