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That's the answer. Shut down half a building, then spend the rest of the year looking for new work in the few moments of respite between insurance claims.
What insurance claims?

Maybe the one about working in a board with live circuits?
You would have the board shut down of course? …. wrestling a big cable and gland into its hole, swinging a big hammer around and all that. Whoops, slipped, bang!

That’s the crux of this thread though…. Saving time by using the wrong tools, and basically cutting corners… because, “ if you don’t do it, someone else will”

Now where have I heard that before?
 
What insurance claims?

Maybe the one about working in a board with live circuits?
You would have the board shut down of course? …. wrestling a big cable and gland into its hole, swinging a big hammer around and all that. Whoops, slipped, bang!

That’s the crux of this thread though…. Saving time by using the wrong tools, and basically cutting corners… because, “ if you don’t do it, someone else will”

Now where have I heard that before?
You've got to admit, removing several armoured glands just so you don't have to spend 30 seconds hitting a locknut with a hammer and chisel is a bit OTT. There's doing it properly but there's a phrase 'where reasonably practicable' that is used a lot and this is one of those times. Spending 3 days, 3 days of factory/unit/home downtime, and thousands of pounds, just to avoid saying you cut a corner on a forum, falls under reasonably practicable. It's not. So you shouldn't do it.

When you gland with a hammer and chisel literally nobody but people online cares. Someone on site will call you rough then you go on about your life because it makes no difference.
 
I'll play the devil's advocate, learnt it that way, always done it and crucially that contact point needs to be as tight as can be given in a fault it could be 1000+ amps, used every tool in the book and never been able to nip it up as tight as a thelmic planner and a old flat bladed screwdriver.
 
Of course the "proper tool" for this is a ring slogging spanner. Limited risk of damage to the nut, and the satisfaction of tightening with a hammer.

Stop! Hammer time...

Of course would really need modified as @Mike Johnson suggested to be similar to the brake pipe spanners that have a slot that can fit over the typical cable inner.
 
Of course the "proper tool" for this is a ring slogging spanner. Limited risk of damage to the nut, and the satisfaction of tightening with a hammer.

Stop! Hammer time...

Of course would really need modified as @Mike Johnson suggested to be similar to the brake pipe spanners that have a slot that can fit over the typical cable inner.
I tried this method before; did not end as well as expected tbh. Problem is that different manufacturers have different sized locknuts for their glands, So what might work for one wont for another !
 
I tried this method before; did not end as well as expected tbh. Problem is that different manufacturers have different sized locknuts for their glands, So what might work for one wont for another !
Whereas an old screwdriver will take a hold on any sized locknut.


Seriously though, I’ve never tightened a nut this way, but loosened plenty off.
 
I tried this method before; did not end as well as expected tbh. Problem is that different manufacturers have different sized locknuts for their glands, So what might work for one wont for another !
That's why spanner are usually supplied in sets of different size's. 🤣
 
Falls into the same debate as house bashers using their 18v impact driver on consumer units

[ElectriciansForums.net] Tightening locknuts with hammer and screwdriver-dog rough or not?
 
Next time I'm working on a gen tx I'll take a photo of the bottom of the marshalling kiosk. It's nearly always impossible to get a spanner in. On rare occasions you might get a water pump pliers on one but no chance with a spanner.
 
There was a thread a few weeks back about an alternative use for a tool other than it was originally intended for. I'm sure they were all listed in that thread!
 

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