Timer for outdoor lights not working | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Timer for outdoor lights not working in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi jackall. As mentioned above, its hard to sort out the problem without some form of test gear.
Also maybe better if you get the post shifted to the DIY section, you may get less stick.

OK, I'll try to do it now...
 
OK, I'll try to do it now...

The Mods will have to move it. (We are the mods, we are the mods, we are, we are, we are the mods!)...
 
As has already been stated above, without having your own test gear it will be cheaper to give a local electrician a ring.

Far more cost effective and safer to boot.
 
Am I dreaming or have I really just read about a time clock operating a boiler AND an outside light??!! :dizzy2:
 
Hello.



[FONT=&amp]Any ideas as to why the following timer doesn't work - the dial doesn't turn at all. There is an electricity supply going into the box because the last switch is for the boiler which works. The first switch is labelled 'General'; the next switch and the timer are labelled 'Outdoor lights'; and the last switch is labelled 'Boiler', which definitely works. All the wiring is attached and not loose at all.

[/FONT]
[ElectriciansForums.net] Timer for outdoor lights not working








Looking at the time clock there is a small round plastic lever at the 7 o clock position.
Move it downwards from position 11 to position 1.
This should bring on the contacts manually.
If it works the time clocks motor either has no power or is **removed**.
If not you have a connection or power supply problem.
That means contact a qualified electrician :icon12:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What of there are two feed to the time clock? One for the time clock and one for the lights? How would that be diagnosed by your description?
 
Looking at the photo there is a main feed to the DP 10A mcb in red.
There are three outgoing feeds in black, 1 to each switch and the time clock motor.
The left hand switch feeds volt free contact 1 with a brown cable.
Contact 2 is designated 11 and the manual over ride switch at the bottom of the time clock face (7 o clock position) is set to 11 which is not used, ie terminal 2.
Contact 3 is designated 1 and there is a black outgoing feed from this terminal.
With the left hand switch ON and the over ride switch in position 1 a supply should feed terminal 3.
If not its back to (Consult a qualified electrician)
 
How can anyone tell from that photo how many feed there are in that enclosure?

Looking closely at the photograph ... I see 11 wires entering from above and 6 from below.


From above, LtoR:
- Brown
- 2 x Grey
- 1 x Blue
- 1 x Orangey Red: Line Feed to Top of MCB
- 1 x Black
- 2 x White: Straight Through Box?
- 2 x Blue: Front, Neutral, Wire Feed to Top of MCB; Rear, Neutral, Straight Through Box
- 1 x Green and Yellow - CPC?


From below, LtoR at cable tie:
- 1 x White: Straight Through Box?
- 1 x Black: Switched Line From MCB
- 1 x Green and Yellow: Straight Through Box - CPC?
- 1 x Blue: Switched Neutral From MCB
- 1 x White: Straight Through Box?
- 1 x Blue: Smaller, Neutral, Straight Through Box

Does RH switch do anything? Switch, MCB switched line or one of white wires?
 
Last edited:
Looking closely at the photograph ... I see 11 wires entering from above and 6 from below.


From above, LtoR:
- Brown
- 2 x Grey
- 1 x Blue
- 1 x Orangey Red
- 1 x Black
- 2 x White
- 2 x Blue
- 1 x Green and Yellow - CPC?


From below, LtoR:
- 1 x White
- 1 x Black
- 1 x Green and Yellow - CPC?
- 1 x Blue
- 1 x White
- 1 x Blue

Sorry son I'm from the *removed* 50s.
Everything was black and white in my days. :wheelchair:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

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