Timer for outdoor lights not working | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Timer for outdoor lights not working in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

**quoted post removed**

Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? Why don't you dig how beautiful it is out here? Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change? :) :)
 
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:hammer:

"Please be reminded that if your reply can't help the original poster, it may be seen as pointless and taking the thread off topic. Please make sure what you are about to post is in-keeping with the forum rules, specifically the "be nice" rule. Just be nice and helpful (even to new members) or don't reply at all please."

you make a point, but ignoring constructive input from other responders, like you have done, makes you as bad IMHO
 
Haha better.
 
To the OP , its a responsibility to leave the installation safe as much as it is to get it working , and as already said the only way you're going to do this is with test equipment and the knowledge to use it , so get an Electrician to sort it....
 
On a different note, I'm curous as to which country this is in. The wiring isn't typical of UK practice but I didn't see any reference to that from the OP
 
yes, this is in Italy. Impressive that some noticed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've cleaned up this thread and reopened it. If you've nothing constructive to say then walk away instead of posting derogatory comments. There won't be any more warnings about this.

If there's something illegal or something that's likely to cause injury use the report button for staff to intervene.
 
If there is a feed across the right-hand two timer terminals (motor) but the dial doesn't turn, the timer is almost certainly U/S, unless you can spot something obvious like a jammed segment that's preventing it turning.

Interesting that the outside light and boiler share an MCB - I would call that poor design as a fault in the light (which is quite common) or isolating it for re-lamping could prevent the boiler being used.
 
UPDATED POST ... didn't edit last entry before thread closed ... trapped foot in door! ;-))

Looking closely at the photograph ... I see 11 wires entering from above and 6 from below.

From above, LtoR at exit from conduit:
- 1 x Brown: Feed to bottom of LH switch; brown from top of LH switch feeds common terminal of timeclock
- 2 x Grey
- 1 x Blue
- 1 x Red (orange tinge): Line feed to top of MCB
- 1 x Black
- 2 x White: Straight through box?
- 2 x Blue: Front, neutral, wire feed to top of MCB; rear, neutral, goes straight through box
- 1 x Green and Yellow - CPC?

From below, LtoR at cable tie:
- 1 x White: Straight through box?
- 1 x Black: Switched line from MCB
- 1 x Green and Yellow: Straight through box - CPC?
- 1 x Blue: Switched neutral from MCB
- 1 x White: Straight through box?
- 1 x Blue: Smaller, neutral, straight through box

Does RH switch do anything? Switch MCB switched line or one of white wires?

Melee of black, line or switched line wires, above the timeclock prevents identification of whence they came or go to; further details of 'live' side of circuit need to be identified.

Likewise blue, neutral wires; source or destination of each is required, of particular interest is the loop of blue wire below the LH switch and LH side of the timeclock.
 
Just in case anyone is interested, I will investigate this further to provide more information (just in case there is still a straightforward solution) but it seems as if it might need the services of a fully-trained electrician, if only to advise further on-site. Thanks for all the helful info so far.
 

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