Tips for pulling 2.5mm T&E under galvanised metal capping

[RobMark]

I have a two metre length of 2.5mm T&E running from the loft to a spur under galvanised metal capping (installed during building). Its needs replacing with some new cable ( long story).

As the cable is buggered, I decided to see how much force it would take to budge it, and it appears to be around three elephants worth. I really don't want to remove plaster and capping, refit etc.

Tips would be welcome !

 

[DPG]

I have a two metre length of 2.5mm T&E running from the loft to a spur under galvanised metal capping (installed during building). Its needs replacing with some new cable ( long story).

As the cable is buggered, I decided to see how much force it would take to budge it, and it appears to be around three elephants worth. I really don't want to remove plaster and capping, refit etc.

Tips would be welcome !

If it's that difficult to get out then you may well find it impossible to feed a new length through anyway.

 

[westward10]

It is either going to work or it isn't have you tried from both ends. Uneven brickwork, the capping not being a continuous length can all hinder it.

 

[cliffed]

Remembering our house bash days….chop abit out of the top of the sheathing & see what happens… see if it moves if not ditto the bottom good luck

 

[RobMark]

It is either going to work or it isn't have you tried from both ends. Uneven brickwork, the capping not being a continuous length can all hinder it.

Yeah, tried both ends, its tighter than a ... well lets say its not budging. The capping I have seen is really well fitted on a very straight bit of wall (concrete blocks) under plaster of equal thickness across the whole wall. Hats of to the plasterer, bloody impressive !

Cable may have grown since being fitted, expansion due to diet, who knows.

 

[westward10]

You have no idea if the brickwork is even and being concealed the mortar between them may also hinder it.

 

[westward10]

Do you need to completely replace it where is the damage.

 

[cliffed]

It is either going to work or it isn't have you tried from both ends. Uneven brickwork, the capping not being a continuous length can all hinder it.

There were buttle clips inside the sheathing of some house’s too no chance

 

[Dustydazzler]

If you can't yank it out then you will have little chance pulling a fresh cable down it

Get the 4 inch bolster out and club hammer , time to mash off the plaster and see whats under neath

Remember to post a photo once you have mashed off all the plaster

 

[RobMark]

I'll give it another tug, if not, prepare for pics lol

 

[OnlQQker]

A lot of the time mortar can make it's way into the channels from the bottom of the channel, and the very top, I've seen it mounded up at both points before now.

Normally I'll knock this out with a scutching chisel and most of the time the channel is clear.
Though locating the channel at mid point can also be useful if they still don't move, the channel may be free either way (up/down) and it can save a lot of chasing out.

 

[7029 dave]

This is the disadvantage of using capping, oval/ conduit is used for rewiring purposes.

 

[mattg4321]

As above, chop the top/bottom out. The capping may not reach all the way above the ceiling/below the floor?

 

[westward10]

Where is the cable damaged.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I'll give it another tug, if not, prepare for pics lol

Didn’t realise this site became X-rated after the 9PM watershed.

 

[RobMark]

Where is the cable damaged.

Unsure exactly where in the run, buts it has a break somewhere.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Unsure exactly where in the run, buts it has a break somewhere.

If the cable won't pull out then I reckon a nail could have gone through the cable as they tried to nail the capping on the wall

 

[Mike Johnson]

The cable is going to be replaced so it does not matter if you destroy the existing, try using the bare core earth as a saw from both ends back and forth, then try pulling one of the cores then the other, then the sheath, you never know you may be able to get 1mm or 1.5mm single cores in the 2.5mm T&E space, check the loading on the spur.

To minimise the repair work try cutting through the capping and cable at a mid way point and then pull from both ends. Good Luck.

 

[Dustydazzler]

The cable is going to be replaced so it does not matter if you destroy the existing, try using the bare core earth as a saw from both ends back and forth, then try pulling one of the cores then the other, then the sheath, you never know you may be able to get 1mm or 1.5mm single cores in the 2.5mm T&E space, check the loading on the spur.

To minimise the repair work try cutting through the capping and cable at a mid way point and then pull from both ends. Good Luck.

An old boy once showed me that trick and it works like 90% of the time

 

[Mike Johnson]

I very much do resemble that remark.

 

[RobMark]

If you can't yank it out then you will have little chance pulling a fresh cable down it

Get the 4 inch bolster out and club hammer , time to mash off the plaster and see whats under neath

Remember to post a photo once you have mashed off all the plaster

Out and replaced, capping was crushed.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Looks like 2 pieces of capping butted up to each other?

Did you find the fault with the cable underneath >?

 

[RobMark]

Looks like 2 pieces of capping butted up to each other?

Did you find the fault with the cable underneath >?

There was a break in the neutral, although could have been me yanking the hell out of it to free it. Capping was crushed, plaster over top was good.

 

[DPG]

Thanks for letting us know.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Looks like two different size and type of trunking? The top section looks a lot different.