tips on bending awkard angles on steel conduit.

[Superspark23]

I have to bend some steel conduit as shown in the picture about how would you get the angles spot on? The picture isnt really accurate as i belive the 2 sets will be similar. doing it another way isnt an option as thats how the client wants it too look like. the black opject is a wall support. and the yellow squares are light fittings .

I haven't done much steel conduit work in the past. The guy i asked to help struggled doing this too and gave up lol. W'ere going to try again tomorrow.

 

[Superspark23]

I'll try that. this is the 1st piece of steel conduit i've done since college! Crazy. I rember the college benders had some lines to match up with but our work one don't and not sure where i should draw then on the vice.

 

[Guest123]

I had these buried on the PC, forgot all about them..........

 

[bumcrack]

The idea of the level ensures that any bend or set you form will always be at a true 90 to that level, assuming you set the level on the horizontal plane. What it will avoid is a twist halfway through your double set, which is a pain to get out, and throws the whole thing off a straight line.

 

[alarm man]

I had these buried on the PC, forgot all about them..........

thats what i was trying to say,but i didnt having the drawings..:tounge_smile:

 

[bumcrack]

The idea of the level ensures that any bend or set you form will always be at a true 90 to that level, assuming you set the level on the horizontal plane. What it will avoid is a twist halfway through your double set, which is a pain to get out, and throws the whole thing off a straight line. The last paragraph on guide 3 by Lenny shows what I mean.Double post for some reason!

 

[GLENNSPARK]

everyone has their own tips and tricks,what i was taught is measure up what you need then draw the setup on the floor in chalk then you have an easy template to work at, under bend what you think is needed then back to the bender to tweak,if the bends work on the floor then its one visit up the steps to fix

underbending is all very well but when i used to work in fabrications (using guillotines brakepresses and ironworkers n stuff)....we used to just take it over a touch......as the material stretches on the outside of the bend and shrinks on the inside.....so it will always want to pull back if you go too far.....just a touch mind..no more or you will never get it back without warming it up with the bottles......can save time going back n forth from bender/former to job......if it goes over than a few good raps with a copper faced hammer on the outside of the bend should bring it back.......used to have to do this when using pressbrakes as what you would find was that the material at the ends of the bed would..lets say be at 90.....but in the centre would be well over....that was 1/4 plate of course over 4 meters in width but the same applies here....if it goes over dont try to pull it back by hand as all you will do is put a radius on the straight...no good see as it will look bowed....like i say...if it goes too far a few good raps with the copper hammer on the OUTSIDE edge of the bend will bring it back......

 

[alarm man]

underbending is all very well but when i used to work in fabrications (using guillotines brakepresses and ironworkers n stuff)....we used to just take it over a touch......as the material stretches on the outside of the bend and shrinks on the inside.....so it will always want to pull back if you go too far.....just a touch mind..no more or you will never get it back without warming it up with the bottles......can save time going back n forth from bender/former to job......if it goes over than a few good raps with a copper faced hammer on the outside of the bend should bring it back.......used to have to do this when using pressbrakes as what you would find was that the material at the ends of the bed would..lets say be at 90.....but in the centre would be well over....that was 1/4 plate of course over 4 meters in width but the same applies here....if it goes over dont try to pull it back by hand as all you will do is put a radius on the straight...no good see as it will look bowed....like i say...if it goes too far a few good raps with the copper hammer on the OUTSIDE edge of the bend will bring it back......

if i went over id just stand on one end and push it back with my hands,still prefer the under method and back in the bender for a touch more..

 

[GLENNSPARK]

if i went over id just stand on one end and push it back with my hands,still prefer the under method and back in the bender for a touch more..

well its whatever works for you isn`t it .....but having worked with various sheet, profile and box/tube materials in the past i can safely say that the method i have described in 21 will work without introducing distortion into straight edges etc....which standing on one end and trying to push it back with your hands will do......see when you rap it with the copper hammer you arn`t necesarily bending it with the hammer blows....what you are really doing is compounding the surface of the material on the outer edge of the bend.....and the steel will want to pull back gradually with repeated blows.....as if by magic....and you dont have to whack it hard either......its more coaxing it.....

 

[bumcrack]

A spark I used to work with described any process, such as the one you describe above, as ' impact modification 'He used a hammer alot.

 

[johnboy6083]

I always over bend slightly and use the stop on the bender to alter. Scaffold also works well.
When on a power station, I did a lot of 32mm conduit. Scaffolding is definately a must for that! Strapping / bolting the bender down is also a good tip with bigger stuff!

 

[GLENNSPARK]

and as alarm has said n all....get it drawn out on the floor...like a pattern of sorts.....a standard fabrication practice...........another one would be to use a piece of cardboard set at the angle you need.....then offer it up to the work piece....and use a line to drop a vertical on it....then trim to that.....theres your bending template see.....just a basic transfer of angles without all the problems of using angle gauges etc.....which can give a "creeping" inaccuracy........if not set perfectly.....

 

[Big n Daft]

I'm self taught on pipe bending. Must have been down the boozer when it was done at college.
The first spark I worked with couldnt teach me to bend pipe either because " cant use one of them new fangled bending machines, I'll stick with me block ta very much and I aint got the patience to teach you with a block".
Oh yes boys, proper old school. He used a big block of timber with a worn hole in the middle, anyone on here used or can use a bending block????

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I'm self taught on pipe bending. Must have been down the boozer when it was done at college.
The first spark I worked with couldnt teach me to bend pipe either because " cant use one of them new fangled bending machines, I'll stick with me block ta very much and I aint got the patience to teach you with a block".
Oh yes boys, proper old school. He used a big block of timber with a worn hole in the middle, anyone on here used or can use a bending block????

well we used to use machinery to generate bends and radii in whatever we were working.....but the principle behind a bending block such as the one you describe will be firstly that its wood and thus will be more forgiving on the conduit and also the fact that the material being worked will be supported around its o/d.....preventing it from popping or ribbing..etc......i should think.....

 

[Knobhead]

You seem to have had your mind made up for you by your mate. But for what it’s worth this is how I’d do it
View attachment 9218

 

[Superspark23]

Cheers for all the tips guy ill see what i can achive 2moro! And Tony thats exactly how'd choose to do it.