Torque screw driver anyone bother ?

[Dustydazzler]

Ok tin hat on for a minute...

I have never ever bothered to acquire or use a torque rated screw driver

I have been offered a second hand wiha one by a mate for £20 as he is buggering off to Spain to work

Are they worth using ?

 

[Markyd]

Mine is in my testing kit bag......brand new...only comes out for assessment......

 

[Red Tony]

Might be good if you know what the right torque setting is for fixing bake light surface back boxes and junction boxes to a wall/joist.
As the amount of times I've just thought to myself just another quarter turn will do.....then crack!! Fcuk!!

 

[ruston]

Might be good if you know what the right torque setting is for fixing bake light surface back boxes and junction boxes to a wall/joist.
As the amount of items I've just thought to myself just another quarter turn will do.....then crack!! Fcuk!!

Most of the surface mounted single and some double boxes are crap too.

 

[45140]

And do they not need adhering to in Domestic then??? Think that's where all the hoo hah started in the first place, Domestic Installs that is, poor equipment and poorly trained DIs.

Surely contradicted by the apprentice-trained electricians here who say they never use them ?

I agree that there is no reference to torque settings in the DI course, but is that not also the case in Apprenticeships too ? After all the DI courses are all validated by Industry organisations.
And is it not a little pot calling the kettle black for people to slag off new scheme DIs when they don't torque themselves ?? At least the DIs have the excuse that this was not in the training course material, nor do I recollect in any of the Manuals I have read - for DI work that is. Industrial is different.

 

[Pete999]

Surely contradicted by the apprentice-trained electricians here who say they never use them ?

I agree that there is no reference to torque settings in the DI course, but is that not also the case in Apprenticeships too ? After all the DI courses are all validated by Industry organisations.
And is it not a little pot calling the kettle black for people to slag off new scheme DIs when they don't torque themselves ?? At least the DIs have the excuse that this was not in the training course material, nor do I recollect in any of the Manuals I have read - for DI work that is. Industrial is different.

Probably because the Apprenticed trained Electricians as you call them have been trained properly and, don't feel the need for overpriced unnecessary tools, as they have been trained properly during their Apprenticeships, on how to access the tightness of a termination, and not rely on the aid of a piece of useless orange and yellow abomination that is a torque screwdriver set, which will need calibration every so often brought about by CP Schemes, in cohorts with training establishments, who instruct DI trainees in the sterile environment of a training both, which as no resemblance to the real life of domestic electrical installations. Why may I ask is Industrial electrics any different, apart from the voltage in some cases? the electric will still kill, and maim innocent people, so please tell me the difference.

 

[Rpa07]

I’m not sure if I’d ever trust one anyway without putting a proper screwdriver in afterwards and giving it an extra 1/8th turn to make it ‘F’ tight, as it states in the MIs

 

[GBDamo]

Most of the surface mounted single and some double boxes are crap too.

I use trunking back boxes for all surface work, really cant be arsed with back boxes cracking.

 

[Charlie_]

I like pattresses, gives me the opportunity to get my magneto files out

 

[ruston]

I use trunking back boxes for all surface work, really cant be arsed with back boxes cracking.

So do I with a cone cutter when needs must .
I have given up on the cheap plastic rubbish.

 

[GBDamo]

So do I with a cone cutter when needs must .
I have given up on the cheap plastic rubbish.

Us Professionals call them a step drill don't you know.

 

[ruston]

Us Professionals call them a step drill don't you know.

Aye only mine isn't stepped , Well some of them are .

 

[stuarth]

If the manufactures instructions that come with a CU state a torque screwdriver set to 2.5n must be used then thats what we should be doing, otherwise its not been installed correctly. very surprised at the response so far from experienced sparks on here.

 

[GBDamo]

If the manufactures instructions that come with a CU state a torque screwdriver set to 2.5n must be used then thats what we should be doing, otherwise its not been installed correctly. very surprised at the response so far from experienced sparks on here.

That's a noble statement but I've often found torque screwdrivers to be wanting, especially with multi stranded cables. T&E up to 2.5mm gives reliable results but 4mm and upwards often need more attention than by hand.
Also quite a few of the less reputable component brands have screws made of cream cheese that slip with the torque screwdriver.
It's not that we buy them to look pretty in the van rather we buy them expecting great things and find them wanting.

I started using mine routinely, had too much slipping so reverted to the old fashioned way with a check using the torque screwdriver to confirm, which showed that my right arm is quite well calibrated.

Having said that much of my work is on old boards with snarled up screws already so probably not the best field test.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

I've found the cage clamp type terminals torqued up to spec with 25mm tails are not tight enough for my liking, the slightest movement loosens them. As above, my screwdriver operating appendage is the best calibrated tool I possess.
What I would say is that it is essential to use a good quality undamaged tool with todays terminal screws, a sub-standard head will damage the generally poor quality terminal screws and it becomes impossible to be sure it's tight.

 

[Red Tony]

This threads reminded me of a lad I used to work with for a brief spell when I was doing a bit of new build housing work......
I had to check a fault on the doorbell ding dong of a house that had been handed over and Tennant's occupied.....
When I'd sorted it out, as I'd been last one in the fuseboard (as I always do and advise everyone else too) I checked the tightness of all the other terminations in DB not expecting much.........
However to my horror I didn't get just half a turn.....no no......I got a full turn and a half on each and every MCB way neutrals and cpcs......
Shocking tut tut......
I went over to another house where fellow sparky was fitting another db and caught him red handed.......
He was only making all his DBs off with a 12v drill!!!

I read the riot act to him and his excuse was it's quicker this way and under too much pressure (I agree those lads are) but I can't agree with walking away from a house with not as tight as I can get connections.
I told him would you live with yourself if one of those houses burns down with a family in it?
Another thing on a lesser note I realised at a later date he hardly drills and plugs he just screws straight into breeze block. Never seen that done before and must admit seemed tight (the black screws the plasterboard guys use).
I still rather drill/plug myself like.