Tripping electric shower | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Tripping electric shower in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

S

stoutlad

Hello, I've read a few similar threads online but none come up with an answer.

I've had this particular 9.5Kw shower for 3-4 years and has run without problem. A few days ago it it just cut out after about 4 or 5 minutes and set off the trip switch which is a Proteus B45. Firstly after reading some stuff I tightened all the connections in the shower unit and in the isolator switch outside the bathroom, it is the type like a cooker switch but with 'Shower' written on it. Same thing happened again but seemed to be after only a minute or so this time. Since the shower is used a lot I decided that it just must be on it's last legs so bought a new one only to discover the same thing happening again. I replaced the isolator switch outside the bathroom and still no better. The only thing I have not tried is replacing the actual B45 trip fuse thing but I figured if that was the problem it simply wouldn't work, would it?

Some details.. 9.5Kw Triton replaced with 9.5Kw Triton with a different model name but exactly the same fittings, I didn't have to alter anything at all to fit it in, think it must be same model but new name. Nothing else is connected to the shower circuit, the cable runs from it's own box next to the main fuse box directly to the isolator switch outside the bathroom then from there, through the wall to the shower. It is 10mm cable.

Any ideas as to the cause?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If the water pressure is low then the pressure switch inside the shower cuts the power to the heating element, this wouldn't trip the MCB.

Just out of interest, how many times did you try to re-set the MCB ?

Beaten to it by Tel, must type quicker lol
 
If the water pressure is low then the pressure switch inside the shower cuts the power to the heating element, this wouldn't trip the MCB.

Just out of interest, how many times did you try to re-set the MCB ?

Beaten to it by Tel, must type quicker lol

I think about 4 or 5 times with the old shower and twice with the new one. The first time I tried the new shower I tried it on the coldest setting then switched to the next setting up then finally the hot setting and in all it lasted about maybe 4 minutes. The next time we tried it (after changing the isolator switch) we set it going on the hot setting straight away and it tripped after about 1 minute or not even that
 
.. another thing, the old isolator switch has 45amp written on it but the new one has 50amp written on it even though in the shop it had 45amp written on the price ticket sticker (B&Q) does that make a difference at all?
 
I think about 4 or 5 times with the old shower and twice with the new one. The first time I tried the new shower I tried it on the coldest setting then switched to the next setting up then finally the hot setting and in all it lasted about maybe 4 minutes


Thanks, my bet with Spartykus is looking a little bit better (pardon the pun)
 
does the 45/50amp thing make any difference? (my previous post)
not a scrap of difference, the A rating is the rated max. load for the switch. either there is in excess of 60A going through that MCB, or it's knackered.
 
Do you think that maybe the old shower was knackered after all then and I haven't wasted ÂŁ120? I would really like for that to be the case :)

Would it have taken a fault to knacker the MCB to start with or do they just go for no reason?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
could be either, or even the cable, impossible to guess without being there.... you could have the old shower tested .

if i were on site, i would test cable and shower, then fit new MCB .
 
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Cheers. I will report back with the outcome. With the old shower I had to hacksaw a bit of the plastic connector pipe off to get the nut off to use again, couldn't get it off for the brass olive so the parts may be okay but it couldn't be used as a shower unit again
 
Hi

Personally i wouldn't carry on guessing. Yeah its good to have an input from the experts on this forum (i am not an expert) but until a electrician is not there to test the entire circuit you wont know.

Consider your own safety and the amount you have spent.. i would leave it off and wait for the electrician
 

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