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True there may not be enough current doing the maths, but it is something I would be inclined to test while I was there, I mean RCD tests to make sure everything is ok with the RCD.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I've reverted back to the old flick switch. Boss isn't happy, but then again I'd rather live than be electrocuted while changing a bulb.

@shaun1, indeed my knowledge of AC is really tiny, as you can tell. The kind of electronics I've done is mostly automotive, where it's a case of live/ground, done.... Much easier than this

I'll get a photo of the 'RCD' or breaker box or whatever it's called :)
 
They do not have rcd protection and that Protek device should not be fitted to that board it is not compatible.
 
Are you saying its unsafe then? Shouldn't this have been spotted on the £700 home buyer survey, bearing in mind I had the full building survey? Just wondering if this is normal on a house or have I been stitched up a bit?
 
Am i the only one wondering if the"boss" is actually the OP's life-partner,or a work place senior figure,unusually interested in bedroom lighting operation? ;)
 
Can anyone explain how light can be on and no hot terminals on one of the two witches detected by the warning voltage? I guess this is a big clue as to how to convert my wired.

Look for suitable equipment to check hot wire.
@thuyln2 - Hi, just to explain the forum is based around the UK standards and practices and these may differ from that of Vietnam and any advice given may not reflect your local practices and regulations, please factor this into any advice you take.
 
Are you saying its unsafe then?

Your installation is not unsafe (subject to EICR!). The sticker on your consumer unit (the photo of switches etc.) says it's due to be inspected last year. So an EICR is due for your installation. There is no RCD protection for your lighting circuits, hence there would be no tripping with the way you have wired your light switch.

If you look at the switches you have a mixture of different brands. Schneider took over Square D, and now if you want to replace those switches you use a Schneider. The protek as @westward10 said, is not compatible with the consumer unit. Although of all alternatives protek would not be my choice as I think they are not good quality. Should be Schneider.

As for the survey, unless you had paid an electrician to do an EICR you would not really know what the state of the electrics were/are.
I would not beleive a surveyor who told me the electrics are fine in any event. That would be like asking Jamie Oliver if your car is OK. I think if you check the weaselly words used in such a survey you will find that there are disclaimers which tell you; We took your money and told you what we think but don't rely on it, if you do we will insist it's your fault not ours, and if you have enough money to pursue it we are in trouble.
 
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Your installation is not unsafe (subject to EICR!). The sticker on your consumer unit (the photo of switches etc.) says it's due to be inspected last year. So an EICR is due for your installation. There is no RCD protection for your lighting circuits, hence there would be no tripping with the way you have wired your light switch.

If you look at the switches you have a mixture of different brands. Schneider took over Square D, and now if you want to replace those switches you use a Schneider. The protek as @westward10 said, is not compatible with the consumer unit. Although of all alternatives protek would not be my choice as I think they are not good quality. Should be Schneider.

As for the survey, unless you had paid an electrician to do an EICR you would not really know what the state of the electrics were/are.
I would not beleive a surveyor who told me the electrics are fine in any event. That would be like asking Jamie Oliver if your car is OK. I think if you check the weaselly words used in such a survey you will find that there are disclaimers which tell you; We took your money and told you what we think but don't rely on it, if you do we will insist it's your fault not ours, and if you have enough money to pursue it we are in trouble.
Indeed.... about a month before we bought the house as well. I should have asked the seller to get this sorted for me, I might have had a solid case to demand it. I never spotted it though. Unless you know what you're looking for, you really don't have a clue.... and I don't. They weren't the best seller in the world though, I won't lie. They would have probably told me to do one.

Is it worth replacing those switches (not me.... obviously) with modern day Schneider's then? Would this bring it up to 'modern standards' or does it need an RCD too? How much we looking to bring my house up to a safer spec? I do feel a tad duped, as I suppose the previous seller should have done it, but if you're selling a house, you're going to avoid doing any work at all, if possible. Can't blame them.

With regards to the dumb 'smart' switch. I've had a word with the electrician at work who does all the office wiring and he's going to have a look for me at lunch to see if it can be safely installed. He's installed a few in the office already. He's said, if I have described it properly (which I probably haven't), the 3rd core (blue?) is probably going up to a junction box in the loft area but will disconnected. He said that can be connected to the neutral in the light fitting and that provides a safe neutral. I have a feeling that is what @shaun1 described earlier. If that's not the case, then the simplest way is to attach a new wire to the old one and run it up the wall, assuming it's not secured? I think I get what he is saying.....

He also said the downstairs one could be an absolute nightmare, involving floorboards coming up. That won't be happening. I'll send it back.

Thanks everyone for your help on this, and I'm very glad that my house is a bit safer now. As for these smart switches, I think I'll recommend giving them a swerve going forward. Do modern houses have neutrals in the wall wiring yet?
 
Good idea getting an electrician in and yes most new builds incorporate a neutral at the switch so people can fit smart devices.
 
Story has a happy ending after all. Had him over, he terminated the earth wire behind the switch and removed the strap which was connecting to the other switch, if I want to return it back to its original state it is easy enough, unscrew and screw it back. He connected the neutral wire from the 4-core into the junction box in the loft above the light fitting, so it's using the same neutral as the light itself. Whole job took around 40 minutes including a cup of tea and that included removing the light fitting, adding a new wire in and going up the loft.

He did mention that as far as jobs go, this one was on the easier scale. So I can imagine this gets much harder in other cases.

Attached some photos.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Trying to understand 3-way switch and smart lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Trying to understand 3-way switch and smart lighting

[ElectriciansForums.net] Trying to understand 3-way switch and smart lighting
 
Had a look again at my breaker box, no RCD (googled, so i had a fair idea), however there is a Square D main switch next to it disconnected. Sounds like a rattle to be honest. Not sure how I missed it. I guess this is what they replaced with the Protek?
 

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