What is the best was to splice electrical wire to power two components? (Arcade power supply and LCD

[SparkyChick]

So am I .
Opera won't work at all. Page comes up for a few seconds then crashes.

What version of Firefox? I'm on 56 (resisting the nag screens telling me to upgrade to the latest version as I've got some add-ons I use for web development that I'm not sure are compatible with the latest version).

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Providing the in-line fuse holders are rated for mains voltage and the expected current, then yes, absolutely.

If it's a small cabinet, then yes, the DIN rail terminals may eat space. The key things are choosing components with suitable ratings. 250VAC and 6A+ would be fine.

Just make sure the crimps are good and firm and if you want to be really sure, crimp them and then flow some solder into the crimped cavity (that's what I normally do when I'm not out on a site).

I take it the plan is to run MAME on the cabinet?

Cool thanks, I think I'll go with that then.
The arcade set up is going to be jamma, I will be using a Pandora's box multi game jamma board. The plan is to set it up so I can switch the Pandora's box for original arcade jamma pcbs as and when I acquire them.
Should I just be fusing the live wires, or the neutrals as well?

 

[SparkyChick]

Fuses should be in the line conductors only.

 

[UKMeterman]

Hi,

Is this equipment for home or public use? If for public use have you looked into your product liablity and appropriate testing?
If you are not familar with din rail terminals, an example can be seen here http://uk.farnell.com/weidmuller/103140-wdu1-5zz/terminal-block-din-rail-4pos-14awg/dp/1131788

They are intended to go on to a rail like http://uk.farnell.com/wieland-electric/ws-005-3542/din-rail-7-5mm-deep/dp/103727

and you will need some end blocks http://uk.farnell.com/weidmuller/ew35/end-bracket-symmetric/dp/238466

end plates such as http://uk.farnell.com/weidmuller/wap2-5-10/end-cover/dp/575112

and earth connections such as http://uk.farnell.com/weidmuller/101000-wpe2-5/terminal-block-din-rail-2pos-12awg/dp/1131792

 

[PEG]

Providing the in-line fuse holders are rated for mains voltage and the expected current, then yes, absolutely.

If it's a small cabinet, then yes, the DIN rail terminals may eat space. The key things are choosing components with suitable ratings. 250VAC and 6A+ would be fine.

Just make sure the crimps are good and firm and if you want to be really sure, crimp them and then flow some solder into the crimped cavity (that's what I normally do when I'm not out on a site).

I take it the plan is to run MAME on the cabinet?

Edit: The DIN rail connectors are not that complicated. Just think of them as customisable terminal strips where you can pick and choose the most appropriate connector. They come in all sorts of sizes and just clip onto the metal DIN rail. Couple of end clamps and an end plate and hey presto you have a terminal strip specifically built for your application.

Some great advice,here,but the solder is not necessary,if the crimping is suitable. Indeed,depending on the conductor type,and machine operating conditions,it could be detrimental.

I've got the loud,vibrating type of arcade machine,in mind

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Cool, thanks guys!
Would the fuses terminal blocks here be suitable for putting inline fuses in for the PSU and monitor?

Plug Top 20mm and 25mm (1 Inch) Fused Terminal Block | maplin - https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/plug-top-20mm-and-25mm-1-inch-fused-terminal-block-tz17t

However, I was thinking, this monitor is just a 19" Dell LCD pc monitor. Usually the kettle lead plus straight in the back so I guess it has an internal fuse no? If so do I still need to fuse the live line in for the monitor? Or just the PSU?

 

[Spoon]

What is the recommended fuse size for the monitor?
What is the recommended fuse size for the PSU?
You have a 6A fuse in the IEC connector that you could change to a different size, if needed.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

The monitor has an IEC socket for it's power in and it came with a kettle lead that was fused at 13a. Regarding current etc. This is from the manual for the monitor:

AC input voltage/frequency/current 100 to 240 VAC/50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz/1.5A (Max.)

Inrush current 120V:42A (Max.)
240V:80A (Max.)

The recommended fuse size for the PSU is 5a I'm pretty sure.
Should I fuse the IEC socket at 10a?

 

[SparkyChick]

Some great advice,here,but the solder is not necessary,if the crimping is suitable. Indeed,depending on the conductor type,and machine operating conditions,it could be detrimental.

I've got the loud,vibrating type of arcade machine,in mind

Pinball?

Good point about operating conditions. Are you thinking primarily vibration and the potential for the cable to fail where the solder ends?

 

[UKMeterman]

There is also the issue where if a wire is tinned then it will make any screw terminal fail over time as the solder cold flows under the screw pressure.

 

[SparkyChick]

There is also the issue where if a wire is tinned then it will make any screw terminal fail over time as the solder cold flows under the screw pressure.

I wasn't suggesting tinning the ends going into terminals, although I have to admit I did do that quite a bit in the past (not on mains cables though), just flowing some solder into the crimps.

 

[UKMeterman]

If the crimp has been done right then it will be by deffiition gas tight and there will be no room for any solder!

 

[PEG]

Pinball?

Good point about operating conditions. Are you thinking primarily vibration and the potential for the cable to fail where the solder ends?

That is one of the concerns,which,of course,as a professional,you would assess on any given job,with the materials to hand.

The problem is,that the OP,with their admitted limited experience,would not be able to do this,and may be inspired to use a less than suitable method

We all use techniques and tricks,that may bypass MI from time to time,myself more than most! It is hopefully understood,that should push come to shove - we could provide a reasoned and qualified explanation,of doing so.

A "third-person",or the OP in this instance,would just quote advice on a forum...

All reputable manufacturers of terminals and fittings,list approved,compatible associated products,together with the methods of use. I have dealt with dozens,Klauke,Fast-on,and many others,and i cannot ever recall a fitting method which stated "...after crimping,then solder..." which does not mean it is impossible.

The two methods are usually,independent means,of achieving an end,and the application of heat,could alter the integrity of any crimp,together with several other issues,including insulation damage,and migration of solder/flux,etc.

All sounds a bit pedantic - for a new year's day! and i am happy to tell you,of occasions where i deliberately ignore these rules,to achieve a better conclusion.
I would,however,be hesitant,of passing on some of my "foibles",as advice,to an OP.

 

[SparkyChick]

I think technically correct is a better way of putting it than pedantic, but however you want to put it, very informative. Highlighted a few things I wouldn't have considered.

Thanks

 

[Jackson Greaves]

So, er, will the monitor need an inline fuse?