Whats the Best Core Drill? - Top Core Drills | on ElectriciansForums

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ExArmy

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untill now i have somehow managed to get by by getting somebody else on the job to core out holes, or i've borowed a core drill, but it looks like i'm gonna actually have to buy one now!

2 options here, i know someone who just uses a big sds max drill for this, and i know someone with a proper core drill. what is the difference?

also regarding the core bits themselves, you can get expensive ones, or cheap ones. I haven't really weighed it up yet, but someone told me in theory an expensive set is never going to last 4 times as long as the cheap set, and the cheap sets are a quarter of the price?

 
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All depends what you need them for and how often you use them. I got a cheap set of Ryobi core drills and they've done well enough chucking holes through block work, brick just takes a little more time and patience. Got them for the SDS as they're not used often and haven't found them too bad on the wrists.
 
been using those diamond ones, something like thise
Toolstation > Power Tool Accessories > Core Drill Bits > Premium Dry Diamond Core Drill Kit

gives a nice clean cut, you drill it without hammer action. expect to spend good 30 minutes especially when you have engineering bricks in the wall.

did last two holes using a cheapo 110mm one borrowed from the builders.
Toolstation > Power Tool Accessories > Core Drill Bits > TCT Core Drill

you drill using hammer mode and its a little bit messy. it gets really hot you got to have a break every ten minutes or so.
does the job too, they last for around 5-10 holes max... 2 teeth gone already.

no need for sds max, i was using 800watts bosch sds 2400.
 
2 options here, i know someone who just uses a big sds max drill for this, and i know someone with a proper core drill. what is the difference?
Core drills are designed for the expected torque, if you are drilling lots of holes then get a core drill, if you are just doing the odd one then you can use the SDS drills, but expect them to take a battering over time.
 
If you intend to drill alot and want to make the job easy get the marcrist core drill. Really good peace of kit.
It does also help spending a little more on a premium core set instead of a budget one. Also do not core using hammer action, this is why people wonder why the teeth are snapping off or do not last long.

Hope this is of some help.
 
Core drills are designed for the expected torque, if you are drilling lots of holes then get a core drill, if you are just doing the odd one then you can use the SDS drills, but expect them to take a battering over time.

still not getting the difference, apart from 70W of power on the more expensive core drill.my makita 2470 SDS max has 780W and it cost me £100, but the 8406 has 850W, and it's about £250
 
I haven't actually looked into the design of the drills, however the expectation is that core drilling does not require high speed but does require high torque, SDS drills need to be flexible in providing high speed, high torque,etc.
So the more specific design of core drills is better for that specific purpose.
I would expect that the motor design is such that for core drills the windings are designed to take greater currents when the motor is almost stalled, the clutch system should be better so that there is not the sudden peak in torque on release and I believe SDS drills do not like operating the clutch (if then even have a clutch).
Overall I have burnt out one SDS drill in drilling core holes, however I think core drills do not tend to burn out, unless heavily abused, oh yes and you cannot accidentally use them on hammer action and damage the bit.
 
We use the DeWalt core drill from screwfix and a set that is about £160 and comes in a little suitcase. Brilliant gear, I used to core holes out wrong but now I do it properly (Use a pilot for 20mm, take it out and core untill through first course and then put extender piece on for second course)
 
As soon as you are able, get yourself a proper core drill.

Core drills generally come in two forms:
1) The conventional chuck type takes a hex arbour.
2) The threaded tool holder type takes a screw fit arbour.
The former, allow you the flexibility of a standard drill. The later, the higher torque of direct drive at the expense of more laboured tool changing.

Of the chuck type the Makita 8406 is fine example, offerings from Dewalt and Bosch are marginally better, but my personal favourite is the Milwaukee DD2-160XE.

Direct drive types are the professional choice however. The Marcrist DDM2 and DDM3 are my favourites, allow wet and dry cutting at fixed speeds, and can be fitted into a drill press which allows fine control of drilling operation. I have never felt the need for variable speeds when using one of these machines, I find them remarkably efficient, particularly when paired with the same make of core cutter.

Some of my colleagues express a preference for the flexibility of variable speed control. However, when challenged on this point most admitted to leaving the drill on one particular setting for all materials, and using the limited variable speed trigger as a quasi soft-start mechanism.
Most of the major manufacturers have a range models. Hilti are the firm favourite direct drive models with most of my work mates, and these also allow wet or dry cutting.

What ever you choose to buy, don’t be tempted to use an SDS drill to drive a large core cutter. The SDS tool-holder is very inefficient when used in the hammer stop mode, a large core drill will quickly stress and wear the tool holder, causing increasing vibration and out of balance loading which will only accelerate the wear, ultimately destroying the SDS tool-holder and motor bearings in very short order.

Even the best core drills have to work extremely hard when driving large cores, the motor and drill casing can get quite hot, the best core drill motors have thermal protection to shut down the drill if the temperature becomes excessive thus preventing motor burn-out. In most cases this thermal protection is not re-settable by the operator and requires the tool to be serviced and parts replaced to restore normal operation. A notable exception are Metabo core drills which have electronic winding temperature monitoring, this system flashes a LED warning signal to the operator that the motor is approaching thermal overload.
Whether your drill has thermal protection or not, the prudent good practice if you suspect your drill of getting excessively hot, is to stop drilling, unplug, remove the core drill, reconnect, switch to the maximum speed range and run it flat out for least 5 minutes in free air to allow the motor fan to cool the windings.

All drills used for core drilling must have safety clutch, this device is vital to protect the user against the kick-back that can occur when a core jams or hits re-enforcement within the work piece.

Novices find soft-start a useful feature allowing a controlled increase in rotational speed, however, most of the current systems have a fixed acceleration which tends to err on the slow but safe principle. Experienced users often find it a time consuming nuisance and prefer to use a limited variable speed trigger as a quasi soft-start, allowing the operator to control the rate of acceleration.
 
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...also regarding the core bits themselves, you can get expensive ones, or cheap ones. I haven't really weighed it up yet, but someone told me in theory an expensive set is never going to last 4 times as long as the cheap set, and the cheap sets are a quarter of the price?

[FONT=&amp]Buy the best quality you can afford.
[/FONT]
I can tell you from experience that quality cores, cut faster, cleaner and more efficiently than cheap ones, and it is most definitely not manufacturer hype. Cheap cores have their sintered diamond lands brazed to the steel body, in quality cores the lands are welded, this is a difficult and expensive process that has to be done under controlled conditions and adds significantly to cost. Also cheap cores use low grade diamond dust to for the lands, whereas in quality cores the lands are made from the finest individual industrial quality diamonds that are much coarser and maintain their cutting edges for longer.

[FONT=&amp]I can recommend "Norton" as I used have used them a lot in the past.
But, on one occasion I was unable to obtain "Norton" from my supplier in the sizes I required for a particular job, I decided to give "Marcrist" a try, what a revelation! Absolutely superb, speedy and efficient cutting, used either wet or dry. I've cut over a hundred holes with a "Marcrist" 117 x 165 CCU850X in a wide range of materials and still it has well defined and sharp diamond lands.

If you look at the manufacturers catalogues you will see that there are usually several different grades of core available for cutting particular groups of material (graded by material hardness or abrasiveness), whether the cutting is to be done hand-held or in a drill press and dry or wet, with the diamond lands optimised for each type. Usually a general purpose grade is specified for most common building materials, cut hand-held and dry.

The Norton representative says that their new x-bit cores are significantly faster and cleaner than the standard blue cores, and that they are better than competitor products (but he would say that anyway), so I look forward to trying one or two in a side by side comparative test on his next on-site visit.

http://www.nortonconstructionproduc...s/PDFs_Catalog_Sections/Catalog-CoreDrill.pdf
http://www.marcrist.co.uk/products/the-cores/the-cores.aspx

[/FONT]
 
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Using an SDS is harder work on larger sizes. The drills chuck is inefficient and the motor doesn't provide sustained torque when they begin to bite.

Also a proper core drill has speed selector, as different sizes are recommended to use lower or high speeds.

If I was only doing a few, I'd be hiring it, and charging it to the job.

Its one of those jobs that people don't really appreciate the amount of time its takes, plus the wear on your nice expensive core bit.

Cheaper cores would probably last 5 minutes on 18 inch stone/1900 engineering brick walls.
 
looking at the DDM2, seems like a good price considering it's built for the job, about an extra 75% more powerful than the makita 8406 and it's a bit cheaper?

struggling to find a decent set of bits though, why don't they sell a kit with 4" 5" and 6" cores? infact to be honest all i need at the minute is 4" and 6" for fans, but all the kits have 40-50-60-90mm etc all useless in my opinion! again looking at the marcrist CCU850 range it seems to be the bees knees.
 

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