to be honest i went with a 3mm drill bit and the only brand i could get at short notice was dormer but i will get a rocol at some point (got some cutting oil as well)

I use dormer taps but rocol is just the brand of the cutting grease. I've seen myself use rems spezial aerosol as well. The cutting oil just prolongs the life of your taps.
 
I use dormer taps but rocol is just the brand of the cutting grease. I've seen myself use rems spezial aerosol as well. The cutting oil just prolongs the life of your taps.

... and gives you a nice clean-cut thread. i.e. NOT ragged to buggery!!!
 
If you don't have access to the tables for tap/drill sizes, a rough way to work out the drill required which will be ok for thin steel ie back plates in panels etc is to just subtract the pitch size from the tap size
Eg M6 × 1.0
M6 is the threaded hole size and 1.0 is the pitch
6-1 =5 therefore a 5mm drill .
If you're tapping something thicker ie machine components you should use the charts as a different ratio of pitch may be required.
 
If you don't have access to the tables for tap/drill sizes, a rough way to work out the drill required which will be ok for thin steel ie back plates in panels etc is to just subtract the pitch size from the tap size
Eg M6 × 1.0
M6 is the threaded hole size and 1.0 is the pitch
6-1 =5 therefore a 5mm drill .
If you're tapping something thicker ie machine components you should use the charts as a different ratio of pitch may be required.

I agree it's good enough for the occasional little job that we come across as sparks or plumbers. but in my "proper" job I carried one of these

231801.jpg


around in the top pocket of my overalls.

It's got EVERYTHING you need to know in it!!

I bought mine when I was 15 and I still have it!

A very handy little book.
 
If you're tapping by hand into relatively thin plate then just about any lubricant will be fine, you could use WD40 or even a spot of normal car oil. I wouldn't worry about expensive lubricants unless you're tapping deeper holes or using higher speeds where heat can become an issue.
 
If you're tapping by hand into relatively thin plate then just about any lubricant will be fine, you could use WD40 or even a spot of normal car oil. I wouldn't worry about expensive lubricants unless you're tapping deeper holes or using higher speeds where heat can become an issue.

I agree!

Just a drop of lube off the end of yer dipstick will be fine. :)
 
If you're tapping by hand into relatively thin plate then just about any lubricant will be fine, you could use WD40 or even a spot of normal car oil. I wouldn't worry about expensive lubricants unless you're tapping deeper holes or using higher speeds where heat can become an issue.
to be honest the lube is more for the drill bits in this case, they get quite warm trying to drill the ss blank plate's.
 
If you don't have access to the tables for tap/drill sizes, a rough way to work out the drill required which will be ok for thin steel ie back plates in panels etc is to just subtract the pitch size from the tap size
Eg M6 × 1.0
M6 is the threaded hole size and 1.0 is the pitch
6-1 =5 therefore a 5mm drill .
If you're tapping something thicker ie machine components you should use the charts as a different ratio of pitch may be required.
thank you, m3.5 with 0.6 pitch will be 2.9mm drill bit.

its only going to be holding card readers onto the plates so if it is a little loose thats fine (rfid readers rather than swipe)
 
to be honest the lube is more for the drill bits in this case, they get quite warm trying to drill the ss blank plate's.

If the bit is overheating it could be your drill turning too fast, material feed too fast, drill bit sharpened to the wrong angle.
 
If the bit is overheating it could be your drill turning too fast, material feed too fast, drill bit sharpened to the wrong angle.
the problem is getting it to bite to start the cut.

click decorative stainless steel blank plates.

im going to have to order in some cobalt bits etc to do it
 
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