Wiring for new 16 Amp oven | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Wiring for new 16 Amp oven in the Electrical Appliances Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi - in that case I think you need an Electrician and a new circuit to suit. Someone here maybe able to help if you post up your locale :) .
 
Hi - in that case I think you need an Electrician and a new circuit to suit. Someone here maybe able to help if you post up your locale :) .
Thanks Wilko, think I may just swap the oven for one under 3kW that can be plugged in, sounds less messy. I have solid floors so cables can’t be run underneath downstairs floorboards.

If the existing socket is supplied from its own circuit on 32A MCB, would an electrician just remove the socket and fit a cooker control unit with some 6mm T&E to the oven?

Thanks again
 
They might well do that but you need someone to actually come and look before quoting.
 
Also at 240+ volts the actual current and power will be higher than that stated for sure 230 volts

This assumes the stated power rating isn't the 240V rating. Most heating elements are still built to the exact same spec as before this mythical voltage change so the published ratings of a lot of appliances are still the 240V ratings.
Electric showers are a good example, they usually have a nice big power rating on the box with small print stating the lower, less attractive, 230V rating.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies and patience, it is appreciated.

Would I be right in thinking this is not a situation whereby a competent electrician would apply diversity?

Thanks again
Beeg
 
Thank you everyone for your replies and patience, it is appreciated.

Would I be right in thinking this is not a situation whereby a competent electrician would apply diversity?

Thanks again
Beeg
my thoughts. stick iton a 13A plug. get a camp meter and see how much you can get the current up to by switching everything on. bear in mind the initial current will be higher than once it's started cycling on stats.
 
my thoughts. stick iton a 13A plug. get a camp meter and see how much you can get the current up to by switching everything on. bear in mind the initial current will be higher than once it's started cycling on stats.
I understand the theory behind this, however would it not be a contravention of the regs as it is connecting something with a stated max load above 13amps to a 13amp socket/ring final circuit?
 
as murdoch said. MI says a 16A supply, so that's what you need to do, even if it never pullls over 13A.
 
I noticed something on another forum saying that it is possible to take a mini CU off the downstairs ring and fit a 16A MCB to it which would supply a cooker point.

So the 32A MCB at the main CU would supply downstairs ring plus a mini CU.

Am I right in thinking that the regs state nothing above 13amp may be connected to RFC?
 
Hi - many things in life are possible, but some are not recommended.
AFAIK there isn’t really a regulation prohibiting this exactly, but IMHO it’s not in accord with Appendix 15 and perhaps Regulation 433.1 (design so that a small overload of long duration is unlikely).
Another way of saying it - if a student submitted this design at college it wouldn’t result in a pass.
 
Beeg, the OSG advises this:

H2.5 Permanently connected equipment
Permanently connected equipment should be locally protected by a fuse complying with BS 1362 of rating not exceeding 13 A or by a circuit-breaker of rating not exceeding 16 A and should be controlled by a switch, where needed (see Appendix J). A separate switch is not required if the circuit-breaker is to be used as a switch.

So the IET have no problem with what you propose
 
Hi - many things in life are possible, but some are not recommended.
AFAIK there isn’t really a regulation prohibiting this exactly, but IMHO it’s not in accord with Appendix 15 and perhaps Regulation 433.1 (design so that a small overload of long duration is unlikely).
Another way of saying it - if a student submitted this design at college it wouldn’t result in a pass.
Thanks Wilko. I’ve swapped the oven for one fitted with a 13amp plug but had I kept it, an electrician wouldn’t have connected it in the method described above and would have have insisted on installing a new radial circuit from the CU?
 

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