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Hi all, A builder friend of mine asked me if all large kitchen appliances ( ie dishwasher , fridge ect ) have to be run off a fused switch spur. He said an electrician he has used insisted that he cut the plugs off the new appliances and wire them in directly to the fused switch. I told him I dont belive this is the case but then started doubting myself as Im new to the electrical trade. Has anyone got an answer for me. Sorry if Im being dim and should know this is the case.

Thanks.
 
They do not have to go into fused spurs, flex outlets or anything else for that matter. The plug tops are sometimes removed because the depth of the appliance means a socket would make the appliance stick out too far from the units, there are ways round that though.
 
Lots of electricians have lots of ways to do different jobs, all of which might achieve compliance with the regs but if an appliance was REQUIRED to be wire to a fused spur why would it come with a moulded plug top?
What the guy was probably talking about was above worktop isolation. In this case there is, once again, no requirement for a fused spur, I've been on jobs where the spec has called for a DP switch above the worktop controlling a socket for the appliance below.
 
In short... NO


Either plug stand-alone units into sockets behind the appliance (space permitting), or stand-alone and built-in appliances into sockets at the back of adjoining cupboards. I prefer to keep sockets in the wall, and cut a hole out of the back of the unit, but some people surface mount inside the cupboard itself. These sockets should ideally be fed from either 20A DP switches or SFCU's above worktop height to enable "switching off" without having to wheel said appliance out.
 
The reason for cutting the plug off and not using a socket means one less place to have a fault.

All appliances in the U.K, and probably E.U, have to be supplied with a plug on.

I've always cut the plugs off and wired to a flex outlet plate.
 
That's not true though Snowhead. As well as in the wiring, anywhere there is a connection there is the potential for a fault. You may well use a flex outlet but are you doing that because you HAVE to or is it down to personal preference?
 
Yes there was Dipzy, but can you honestly see any manufacturer invalidating a warranty on an appliance that has been installed by a qualified electrician as long as there is correct fusing somewhere between the RFC and the outlet controlling it as long as the fixed wiring conforms to BS7671?
 
I'm with Snowhead on that.

Mostly because having a 13A fuse in the appliance plug and another 13A fuse in the SFCU above the worktop goes against the principles of fuse discrimination.

Also, you try and pull out a washing machine full of clothes and water when the plug or socket behind the appliance goes phut.
 
I agree with you both Taylor, but the point I was trying to get to is that there are different ways of achieving compliance. Yours is one way I prefer a DP switch with a socket under the worktop but no one can say that you are right and I'm wrong or vice versa.
 
I always do a new kitchen fit such that I use a FSU to feed a length of 1.75 3c flex buried down a chase, then coming out of the plaster as a trailing lead with a trailing 13A socket on it. That way, it's NEVER in the way as you can move it around to suit the appliance and you don't have to worry about pulling the whole shebang out again.
 

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