Wiring regs re Spurs | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Wiring regs re Spurs in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

sounds like some cheapo cable. if you can't see basec embossed then reject it.
 
If you have concerns, note them down and take photographs. Your electrician MUST be registered with a scheme (ELECSA, NAPIT, NICEIC etc). Ask for the registration doc, and you can also check with the registered body too. Any concersn must be raised with the onsite trades and give them a chance to explain or alter the project. If you subsequently jet nowhere, then call the relevant registration body and ask there.
 
I noticed that you mention 'cost cutting' I don't think it is. It wouldnt cost much extra to open the ring at the socket indoors and extend it to the conservatory
 
A lot of sparks still consider a conservatory as a "Temporary" structure and therefore they don't like extending a ring final into the structure.

Normal practice for conservatory circuits are run a 2.5mm cable from the nearest socket in the house into a FCU fused at 13amp. Then from there around in 1.5/2.5mm to perhaps 2-4 sockets depending on the size of the structure. Then at the nearest socket to your light switch another FCU at 3qamp for the lights.

By doing this you will save costs of running circuits back to the CU. it will prevent the chances of a major upheaval in the house taking up floor boards to do this, as your keeping all work really inside the structure, and the only disruption in the house will be spurring of the nearest socket.
 
By doing this you will save costs of running circuits back to the CU. it will prevent the chances of a major upheaval in the house taking up floor boards to do this, as your keeping all work really inside the structure, and the only disruption in the house will be spurring of the nearest socket.

You don't have to run cable back to the C/U to open up the ring
Main. As someone else on here has said. You can use the socket as a 'junction box' to open the ring main up!
 
You don't have to run cable back to the C/U to open up the ring
Main. As someone else on here has said. You can use the socket as a 'junction box' to open the ring main up!

That would have been my post #12.

Not sure that I said you would need to run the cable back to the CU to open up a ring final. I thought I posted that the majority of conservatory circuits are a spur of the nearest socket of a ring final, as it saves running circuits back to the CU with all the disruption caused, and that a 13amp circuit in a conservatory should be ample. unless there is a loading issue.
 
never read through all the thread but as you appear to have an issue maybe it would be better to get your electrician to explain his plan in full and then batter advise could be given as to wether his methods are correct - not sure why you feel the need to question his methods
 
We had a quote from the Conservatory supplier the price included two double sockets and a light/fan point and to a 'none' electrician = normal household electrical loads. The 1st electrical fix was completed after the brickwork. At no time have we been warned about the load limitations of the circuit. We are concerned about the cable (not marked) and the fact it lies within the cavity wall insulation. It was made clear to the supplier that we required a none plaster finish which required cables to run inside the cavity. Of course we cannot confront the electrician until we see a clear intention ignore the spur fuse units.
 
Cable should have various markings on it. This page will show you what markings you should see:
Draka Cables - Cable Markings
If the cable has no markings on it, then it is possibly substandard, non conforming cable. Scroll down the page above and send a sample of the cable to the address given. The markings should be repeated along the sheath every 300 - 400mm.

You should ask your electrician what his intentions are regarding the circuit. As it sounds like a single run of 2.5 and it's in insulation then he must be planning to make it a fused spur (in insualtion the rating of 2.5 drops from 27 to 13 amps).
 
no marks on the cable and a blank drum sounds very dodgy,was watching a program just the other night on fake cable and how widespread it is in the uk,i would seriously speak to your electrician and ask him where he bought the cable from and if he can show evidence otherwise if it was my conservatory it would be coming outand he would be walking down the drive looking very sorry for himself and out of pocket for the work he has already done,all cable manafactured to british standards must state so along its length at least once per metre.
 
Make sure you check both flat sides of the cable, the markings may be on one side only.

I agree with Bert - if he's fitting unmarked cable, then rip it out and send him packing (and report him to his scheme provider).
 
you are not actually permitted to run cables down the cavity unless its protected ,ie SWA in a conduit , the reason for this is you can see if you have damaged the cable when pulling it down on sharp snards of render wall ties ,and of course the intrepid rodent attack but like the guys have said cables should be marked
 

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