Wooden cladding / multi tool

[Dustydazzler]

I have been asked to price a massive rewire and the entire downstairs is wooden clad walls. The wooden cladding is staying, I have to cut new boxes into it.
Will a multi tool cut the cladding neatly and quickly ?

I have never used a multi tool so any advice appreciated

 

[Dave OCD]

We all have different ideas Mike, I find the multi tool perfect for accurately cutting into cladding, be it wood or plastic. But for plasterboard I'll generally just use a padsaw, quick and easy.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Do you plunge your padsaw into the plasterboard or drill a hole first?

 

[Dave OCD]

Sometimes or I'll just go through the corners with my bradawl first.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Different ideas indeed, but as I have my drill with me its easy to drill a hole with the hole saw. less cutting with the padsaw or multi tool, plus with the Karcher auto turn on vacuum and the Fein dust extractor attached the amount of mess is reduced, but all of this is in the past for me, happily retired and very happily locked down at the moment. ?

 

[ferg]

V lining is really popular round here.

I haven't used my Jigsaw since I got a decent multitool.

I have a Dewalt 18v and use Saxton or Antler blades.

I had a Milwaukee 12v one but found it under powered.

 

[UNG]

If you really don't want to use a circular box just drill the hole with the hole saw and then trim to square with the multi tool, better than trying to cut into the boards with the multi tool and running all the way over the next board when it runs away with itself, don't get me wrong I love my multi tool, but its not ideal for cutting into wooden boards, plasterboard yes its the perfect tool, but not for cladding.

If you have problems like that with a multi tool you aren't using correctly, if you are bothered about a straight blade running away just start the cut with a half round blade and finish off with a straight blade.
To say a multi tool is perfect for plasterboard but not for cladding is quite surprising I cut into tiled walls with a diamond blade with no issues, if you are worried about the blade slipping or running away a couple of layers of masking tape soon stops that

 

[Mike Johnson]

The suggestion that I don't know how to use a Multi Tool I find quite insulting, Is there an incorrect way of using a multi tool, don't think so, I also don't wring the neck of a hammer.

Tiled walls are easy, there is a grout line to start off from, the problem with the multi tool running away with itself is mostly due to Arthritic hands, but all academic in reality as I don't do installs anymore.

 

[UNG]

The suggestion that I don't know how to use a Multi Tool I find quite insulting, Is there an incorrect way of using a multi tool, don't think so, I also don't wring the neck of a hammer. the problem with the multi tool running away with itself is mostly due to Arthritic hands, but all academic in reality as I don't do installs anymore.

While you might find it insulting from the negative comments you have made to date it suggests a multi tool is of limited use when this is not a true fact and your use of a multi tool actually limited by your medical condition

Tiled walls are easy, there is a grout line to start off from,

How many tiles have a grout line in the middle of them?, it's not easy starting on a grout line when the customer wants a socket in the middle of the tile

 

[Mike Johnson]

I have never said a multi tool is of limited use, but gave an alternative suggestions on how the problem could be addressed by not going with the herd.

There is always a vertical grout line where a socket can be located equidistant about the grout line by only cutting two tiles, always better if new tiles can be sourced and match the existing and the cutting can be done on a proper tile cutter rather than on the wall, but it's not an ideal world. ?

 

[brianmoooore]

Rarely ideal to have a fitting crossing the boundary between adjacent tiles. Almost all tiles taper off to some degree at their edges, or may not be laid perfectly flat with each other, so a fitting across two will leave a hole compromising the IP rating, unless bodged with extra grout or similar.

 

[Zerax]

I'd be tempted to try a small hand held router for those cutouts... make up a template that you can screw to the wall in the correct position (in the middle of the hole that you'll end up with). Then with a small cutter, high speed and say a guide bush... you can simply run around the template. I'd take it in depth steps of say ¼" and see what happens.

Maybe it's easier for me as I already have exactly that setup.

 

[timhoward]

I'm reminded of an old quote "If it works for you that's all that matters".

I'd be tempted to try a small hand held router for those cutouts... make up a template that you can screw to the wall in the correct position (in the middle of the hole that you'll end up with). Then with a small cutter, high speed and say a guide bush... you can simply run around the template. I'd take it in depth steps of say ¼" and see what happens.

Maybe it's easier for me as I already have exactly that setup.

I've done this too. Works well, especially if there are services behind and you want to be careful!

 

[Mike Johnson]

Deleted.

 

[littlespark]

I’ve volunteered myself to add a few sockets in this luxury log cabin I find myself in this week.

The walls appear to be slotted beams of say 60mm wide, but with investigation, they’re 15-20mm wood panelling with a glass wool filled void in between.
I’ve got boxes to cut in, with a multi and a new set of blades…. But it’s the cable route that could be a hassle.

All the new sockets are on the same wall as existing, low level points.. so I was thinking drop down to floor level inside the wall, drill through and run along the front of wall at floor level.

I’ll either get real wood beams and cut a slot in the back, and it should look like a skirting board…… or I’m sure I can get wood patterned pvc mini trunking.

 

[DPG]

I’ve volunteered myself to add a few sockets in this luxury log cabin I find myself in this week.

The walls appear to be slotted beams of say 60mm wide, but with investigation, they’re 15-20mm wood panelling with a glass wool filled void in between.
I’ve got boxes to cut in, with a multi and a new set of blades…. But it’s the cable route that could be a hassle.

All the new sockets are on the same wall as existing, low level points.. so I was thinking drop down to floor level inside the wall, drill through and run along the front of wall at floor level.

I’ll either get real wood beams and cut a slot in the back, and it should look like a skirting board…… or I’m sure I can get wood patterned pvc mini trunking.

Or go for the galv conduit look. It seems to be in vogue.