L & N at the switch | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss L & N at the switch in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

A few years ago I recall a lot of this tosh in the NIC newsletters,personally I'd always ask for a reg if my inspector pulled me up on this...which I fancy would shut him up.
 
Shanks has come out with a few dodgy comments over the last few months.
Is someone at his work pulling his chain?!?! :smilielol5:

Smells like the arrogance of an apprentice approaching the end of their time and thinking they know all the answers. Then when pulled up on it quickly covers it with a 'just testing you' 'I always do it this way but said that to promote a reaction' style attempt at covering for it.
 
I much prefer rewiring with Ns at the switch now, especially if daft light fittings are going up. Use Hager as standard anyway, and a 35mm back box allows for dimmers in the future. Surely the cable restraint is provided by the bonding/skim!! Much better than a poxy clip! Don't know where all this MF stuff came into it; its a light switch, it's not gonna be hidden away or inaccessible..
 
I'm sure there are many here that think i'm against a neutral conductor at a switch point, i'm not, if it's required for any reason, not a problem as far as i'm concerned. What i do have no time for, is switch looping. i've seen first hand on more than a few occasions totally congested back boxes where the switch plate accessories are literary pressing against the myriad cables. Heard all the old twoddle time and time again here, about how easy it all is, it is....until you have maybe several 2 way switches at one location or worse a combination of 2 ways and intermediates... Not to mention trying to get all the sheathed cables into a couple of bock box 20mm knockouts, and the minimum of 3 switch drop cables for every switch, ...before you start counting the 2 ways and intermediate cables that may be needed... Yep great system!! ....NOT!!
 
modern lights are not compatible with uk 3 plate system. no problem with old school pendant, but when customers will bring their shiney b and q light, try terminating 3 cables in there.
wago connectors help a lot for crowded boxes....
 
modern lights are not compatible with uk 3 plate system. no problem with old school pendant, but when customers will bring their shiney b and q light, try terminating 3 cables in there.
wago connectors help a lot for crowded boxes....

What's that got to do with switch looping?

So the modern electrician is incapable of making off say a line joint (same as what you'd use if connecting recessed fittings) if presented with an ill designed customer provided fitting? Wago's are a damn sight more bulky than the old 6A chock blocks.
 
We also use the fan isolation switch as our hub if you like take our power to this point & then on for the bathroom Ect, with a 3 amp fuse back at board just for that circuit, makes a nice connection & fan isolator switches are well not exactly huge at the back nice bit of room, also drop 3 core to switch as an alternative for ensuites if they require extra switch just undo the light cable put wago in done.
Before all start on me about fan not drawing 3amps it is the fan manufactures requirements for the 3amp fuse & have been on their course for their fans no 3amp fuse no cover should it go wrong, the other thing we don't have is another box outside bathroom with switched spur.
 
I'm sure there are many here that think i'm against a neutral conductor at a switch point, i'm not, if it's required for any reason, not a problem as far as i'm concerned. What i do have no time for, is switch looping. i've seen first hand on more than a few occasions totally congested back boxes where the switch plate accessories are literary pressing against the myriad cables. Heard all the old twoddle time and time again here, about how easy it all is, it is....until you have maybe several 2 way switches at one location or worse a combination of 2 ways and intermediates... Not to mention trying to get all the sheathed cables into a couple of bock box 20mm knockouts, and the minimum of 3 switch drop cables for every switch, ...before you start counting the 2 ways and intermediate cables that may be needed... Yep great system!! ....NOT!!

But thats not a reason to be against neutrals at switches,it's a reason to be against bad design by the installer. The same would apply if an installer wired 3 cables to a point where he knew a chandelier was going up and there was no access above!
 
We also use the fan isolation switch as our hub if you like take our power to this point & then on for the bathroom Ect, with a 3 amp fuse back at board just for that circuit, makes a nice connection & fan isolator switches are well not exactly huge at the back nice bit of room, also drop 3 core to switch as an alternative for ensuites if they require extra switch just undo the light cable put wago in done.
Before all start on me about fan not drawing 3amps it is the fan manufactures requirements for the 3amp fuse & have been on their course for their fans no 3amp fuse no cover should it go wrong, the other thing we don't have is another box outside bathroom with switched spur.

you could just get a fan that doesn't require to be protected by a 3amp fuse or use one of these fan isolator switches.


Excel 3 Pole Fused Fan Isolator Switch - White | QVS Electrical Wholesalers
 

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