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I have a electronic board with leds (made by me) that is driving a relay. When that relay is closing it’s contacts, is actually switching the 240V for the light bulb switch in my room. This board is quite long, like 50cm (half a meter). The relay is in the left corner, and the live wires from it goes in behind the board to the hole in the wall for the mains switch. I also have a mild steel sheet behind my board that is grounded. It is shielding the interference of the 50Hz from the live wires from the wall to my sensitive circuit. But even If I have this grounded metal shield behind my board, the live wires from the relay are still affecting my entire circuit board, keeping it ON all the time. If I am disconecting the live wires from the relay, the board is functioning very well. Another IF, is if I disconnect the ground from the metal shield, the circuit board goes nuts. So the shield is doing it's job fine, but only for the live wires inside the wall !!! But not for the wires from the relay to the live switch.
- I want a way to shield these wires !
Thank you !
 
I thought you could put a cover over the board with the modules on. But that would obscure the LEDs. What you could do is use the light pipes to take the light from the LEDs from the wings moduleto holes in the cover so they could be seen. The light pipes have flat or rounded ends. You as an artist could then design and draw the wings on the cover around these light pipe exit holes.
One of the original objective for this projekt was to be as FLAT as imaginable. I originally wanted to be flat as a piece of paper or as a paint thickness. Thats like 10micro. But in reality, we have the leds height that add to the board thickness and the other components heights. As you can observe, absolutly no stand up component (or vertical placement), all are horisontal placed to diminish the thickness of this board as originally intended.
I think I understand your point. Because the other components height, I should add these tubes on the leds to get them more in front. Is this correct? Well, it is a nice idea, if I want to cover all the electronics and not use this transparent cover. But the thing is that I want to show all those wires there, all my work. I want to show it is a prototype, because it is.
Yesterday, ALL day, I built the receiver circuit Module. Today I finish it and it works ! Youhoo. Next, is to make the transmiter.
 
You have been more industrious than me. I have at least made a breadboard for version 3 which is bigger. You can see the 850/940nm ir sensor array.
 

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If you are happy with the functionality you get from the breadboard right now, it is time to make it on fiberglass board. It's probably a good advice for you, to make it as a definitive project. And dismantle everything you have here on these breadboards. I did the same. Remember the movie where I presented the remote control receiver? It was breadboarded. Now is gone, breadboard is clean again, ready for other experiments. But I made the receiver module in this time, unfortunatly with the same opamps on the breadboard because they were the only ones I had.
 
mister @marconi - I am in need of your advice.
I have 2x555 to build my transmitter. They are SMD type. With very tiny pins on them.
Usually I cut like 3x3mm metal pad as the tiniest. Sometimes I go to 1x3mm but rarely. The thing is on such tiny surfaces, the solder is not behaving normally as on a pad. It is like a ball all around the tiny diameter. Also it is the problem that such tiny wires (not pads) are not very stable in my cardboard. I need some sort of glue on them as well. Maybe.
So...I need your advice, from what to build such tiny pads for a SMD IC pins? and how to stick them more firmly?
Any idea may lead to other ideas. Who knows. Until now i made like 2 or 3 smd IC circuits and it was hard as f**k. I can do it like that again, but... im out for ideas, maybe you may know an easier solution.
Thank you.
 
I will have a think. DPG is following this thread and he may want to suggest something.

I have not used SMD before. Would these adapters help:

8 pin smd ic socket - Recherche Google - https://www.google.com/search?q=8+pin+smd+ic+socket&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB822GB822&sxsrf=ALeKk03xyMjvoWj6OzpKf_NG8WjpeGm6Lw:1618483435600&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM%252CmwP41uPu4pVjrM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQEOag2jnJwNqMV8i8TSghnRkpvBw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiDyIPSiIDwAhVsQ0EAHZU6Dq4Q9QF6BAgSEAE&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=rGcz4l-DmLFZtM

PS: I may be a little distracted over the next few days but will still look every so often at this thread. We have just returned home with Maud aged 8 weeks a Jack Russell :)
 

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May be worth you buying some standard DIP 555 chips?

Or surface mount devices with an adaptor as per Marconi above. Good solution this.

Or in the past I've glued the surface mount type to a board (piece of plastic etc.) and soldered wires directly to the pins. Use track repair wire or similar fine gauge wire.
 
I have both versions DIP8 and SOP8.
For SOP8 I have 100pcs and I really want to use them.
Thanks for your suggestions so far. The adaptor is a good solution, but Ill have to buy it and it takes time to arrive. I want to build this thing these days.
In the end I will experiment more and also use your ideas as well, with glue.
Any other ideas are welcomed.
Also... can you show me your SMD iron tips that you use? Or any other soldering tools specific for smd? The big tip that I have is too much, and is harder with it to get in the right spot, especially if I want to stick wires to the pins. I can do it in the end, but with great effort.
 
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If you are happy with the functionality you get from the breadboard right now, it is time to make it on fiberglass board. It's probably a good advice for you, to make it as a definitive project. And dismantle everything you have here on these breadboards. I did the same. Remember the movie where I presented the remote control receiver? It was breadboarded. Now is gone, breadboard is clean again, ready for other experiments. But I made the receiver module in this time, unfortunatly with the same opamps on the breadboard because they were the only ones I had.
Maud is asleep so I can catch up with what you wrote. Unlike you who has a final purpose in mind for this challenging project, my attempt at it is for amusement only and to keep my mind active. Every so often, I have to pluck up the courage and put these breadboards in the boot of my car and take them to the waste disposal site to make more room in my shed. I grieve for a few days afterwards but one has to be realistic about the clutter they create. I have not found anyone locally who wants them. It is the challenge, the doing, the set-backs, the success which provides the enjoyment for me and that is all I want. Anyway, there is no way my 1930's minded wife would allow me to put such technology on the wall in place of:
 

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mister @marconi you are a funny guy.
Ofcourse I could use a free product, im not against free stuff if possible. But for sure im not hunting anything. And all my videos are a collaboration method of communication. I got a ton of help from a couple guys, including you, through these movies I made. This is the MAIN purpose of them. Not to make some comercial bull_sh_t propaganda. Again, and try to trust me, i know you are skeptical, and is healty to be, but sometimes trust by word, especially me, when I say, that what i do, i do it for me. And I am very glad that people likes my project, but that is outside the scope. What is the most important is that I like this project and Im leading it as long and as strong as I can. It's not easy. It is very hard in fact, and very slow.
I managed to make the pads for the smd IC, at least 4 of them on one side. That was mind blowing hard. I tried many permutations and many frustrations attempts. But I get it. I had multiple ideas and also implemented some that didnt work with and how i imagined. Aaah... my back hurts. The conclusion is that Yes, it can be done , but is crazy hard, and definetly not the way to do it too many times for multiple IC's. I dont want to think on IC's with more than 4 pins on one side. Horrible to do it as Im doing it. Trust me. So yes, it is possible, but very hard and very slow to make it. I'll have to think on other more "faster" (nothing is fast in truth) and more easier way to assemble these little black devils.
I knew about these adapters that you mentioned but you know, when you concentrate on something, you tend to forget everything. So your idea was more a reminder and a great help in the same time. I am thinking now, after my HARD manual attempt, to more seriously include them in my designs. I'll have to check the prices now, or go to version 2, buy some copper plated fiberglass and make them myself. I will need in order of hundreds. 100 for the start, but 200 to be on a safe side and if im lucky to find them VERY cheap !!! That's the most important prerogative for me - VERY cheap ! I didnt searched for their prices yet, its the next thing to do next.
And for my current projekt I have 2 realistic options now. I must finish it fast (days), so either I will use the DIP8 package or these very hard to make little experimental pads I did so far for the smd IC. Damn it, they are so hard. I wish they were not so hard, but they are. It's so much easier to work with older components than with smd's !!! Trust me on this.
 
also, mister @marconi or other guys that may look over this thread, can you throw a quick search on YOUR favorite online market and find me the CHEAPEST price for "100pcs sop8 adapter" ?
I already give it a search right now and the cheapest possible prices +transport tax I could find for me is 2.68US$. Also, be careful there is product price + transport price, so in total, these 2 must be the cheapest ! Ok? And thanks!
for example, this is what i got: US $2.06 / lot (100 pieces) & Shipping: US $0.62 so in total = 2.68$ at least for my country but it must be very close to this result for you as well, in UK.
Maybe im in luck and you can find it for 1$ ! Worth to ask.
 

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