Pat testing

oldtimer · Sep 21, 2012

drew35 said:
Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???[/QUOTE]

No your not but the problem you have is that PAT companies spreading the urban myth you dont have to do them as they are part of the fixed wiring so I just wish the authorities would come out and say that x y and z should be tested.This leaves us piggy in the middle because if we do them then the cost goes up and the agent says you are more expensive than the PAT company.

IPU by the way I think In should get a cut from your business seeing I helped you so much LOL

i=p/u · Sep 21, 2012

10 cafes to do now son, and the word is spreading , maybe you could come live here and do the work for me , then il give you a cut and the next time im in livingston il come work with you while the other half galavants

oldtimer · Sep 21, 2012

Dont work in Livingston as its bandit country no I work in the big smoke plus I would be better coming over to help you out or I could just buy over your business

i=p/u · Sep 21, 2012

Lol... 59.00 call out first 20 items free, 3.50 a fuse replaement.. 6.50 a plug top =

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IF I MAKE IT BIG , IL LET YOUR TEST MY PROPERTY PORTFOLIO

Patman · Sep 24, 2012

Remember with IT equipment - earth bond only @ 100mA, insulation - but don't power up. (Equipt. crash can occur).

i=p/u · Sep 24, 2012

Mines only does 200mA

Marnik · Sep 24, 2012

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?

Richard Burns · Sep 24, 2012

Marnik said:
When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?

Class I do not have to have exposed metal, they only need to be relying on basic insulation AND earthing for protection so they must have a cpc.
If they are class II then they must have double or reinforced insulation for protection and therefore not require an earth.

oldtimer · Sep 24, 2012

Also one to look out for Delongie make convector heaters but their recent one have metal front/back/top/bottom but plastic on the sides these are marked Class II not easy when you get the 2 different ones on the same job

morph · Sep 25, 2012

i=p/u said:
Mines only does 200mA

Hi guys

I have been asked to do a bit of PAT by a customer so i have just bought a seaward 250 it was not cheap in my view yet i am wondering if it was a bad buy , reading the above posts it seems when i test IT stuff i need to test earth bond at 100mA but the seaward does not so far as i can see allow you to change this setting, i can change the I/R to 250 or 500 and the leakage range from 0.75 to 3.50 mA
any help at all please

thanks

zap · Sep 25, 2012

My flymo has a class II extension lead.

oldtimer · Sep 25, 2012

Zap not sure what you are saying here the black plug on the left is a Black and Decker the one on the right orange is the Flymo

zap · Sep 25, 2012

I've owned the flymo for yonks and its extension lead. It was just to let people know that they do exists.

tony mc · Sep 25, 2012

So how do you plug a kettle (or anything else) into that extention lead !

Is that lead not specific for class 11 equipment you use in the garden etc?

I think you will find that the COP re PAT state

Where extensions lead is fitted with a standard 3 pin socket outlet it should be tested as per a CLASS 1 appliance!!

Sent from my Redifusion cable outlet (Window sill)

zap · Sep 25, 2012

Hi oldtimer, you're right about the interfaces. It's not been used since I moved to my current location 8 years ago. I'm not certain but I may have bought it second hand so the extension lead may well be bodged. I've no plans to use it I've just stored it in the shed 'just in case'.

Tony, yes it came with the flymo, and I agree with the rest of your post.

Pat testing

oldtimer

i=p/u

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oldtimer

i=p/u

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Patman

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i=p/u

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Marnik

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Richard Burns

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oldtimer

morph

zap

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oldtimer

zap

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tony mc

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zap

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