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Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???[/QUOTE]

No your not but the problem you have is that PAT companies spreading the urban myth you dont have to do them as they are part of the fixed wiring so I just wish the authorities would come out and say that x y and z should be tested.This leaves us piggy in the middle because if we do them then the cost goes up and the agent says you are more expensive than the PAT company.

IPU by the way I think In should get a cut from your business seeing I helped you so much LOL
 
10 cafes to do now son, and the word is spreading , maybe you could come live here and do the work for me , then il give you a cut and the next time im in livingston il come work with you while the other half galavants
 
Dont work in Livingston as its bandit country no I work in the big smoke plus I would be better coming over to help you out or I could just buy over your business
 
Lol... 59.00 call out first 20 items free, 3.50 a fuse replaement.. 6.50 a plug top =

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IF I MAKE IT BIG , IL LET YOUR TEST MY PROPERTY PORTFOLIO
 
When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?
 
When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?
Class I do not have to have exposed metal, they only need to be relying on basic insulation AND earthing for protection so they must have a cpc.
If they are class II then they must have double or reinforced insulation for protection and therefore not require an earth.
 
Also one to look out for Delongie make convector heaters but their recent one have metal front/back/top/bottom but plastic on the sides these are marked Class II not easy when you get the 2 different ones on the same job
 
Mines only does 200mA

Hi guys

I have been asked to do a bit of PAT by a customer so i have just bought a seaward 250 it was not cheap in my view yet i am wondering if it was a bad buy , reading the above posts it seems when i test IT stuff i need to test earth bond at 100mA but the seaward does not so far as i can see allow you to change this setting, i can change the I/R to 250 or 500 and the leakage range from 0.75 to 3.50 mA
any help at all please

thanks
 
So how do you plug a kettle (or anything else) into that extention lead !

Is that lead not specific for class 11 equipment you use in the garden etc?

I think you will find that the COP re PAT state

Where extensions lead is fitted with a standard 3 pin socket outlet it should be tested as per a CLASS 1 appliance!!



Sent from my Redifusion cable outlet (Window sill)
 
Last edited:
Hi oldtimer, you're right about the interfaces. It's not been used since I moved to my current location 8 years ago. I'm not certain but I may have bought it second hand so the extension lead may well be bodged. I've no plans to use it I've just stored it in the shed 'just in case'.

Tony, yes it came with the flymo, and I agree with the rest of your post.
 

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