Often in old wiring, live to the downstairs switch, then in twin (or twin & earth) the two switched lives to the upstairs switch, and a single switched live from the upstairs switch to the fitting. Or some variation on this. The L & N might have been on separate circuits.
I had a 3-core 16mm2 SWA to draw in a 35m of 50mm inner diameter twin wall duct week before last, also with 2 bends, and was a bit worried it might not be so easy. With liberal application of Ideal cable pulling lubricant and two of us (one pulling, one pushing and lubricating) and it went in...
I'm inclined to agree. My understanding is only one of the pumps has an issue with air locks, the other one doesn't, so I'd want to know why this is. However, a relatively new maintenance guy on site seems convinced a UPS is the way to go, and seems to have convinced the others of this as well...
Professionally installed (I understand) some years ago, but perhaps not very well.
I quite agree that I'd prefer not to be involved, but do a lot of electrical work for the site and difficult to just say I can't help. Ideally I'd say get their pool company to specify what is needed, except they...
Some external safety review recommended adding an emergency stop, I suspect they thought someone might get sucked against a water intake, so one was installed. I've no idea whether this is a realistic concern or not, but not for me to question it!
Yes, I think the pipe arrangements are a...
Perhaps post a photo showing the consumer unit and the area around it. Typically an internal box to terminate the SWA would sit either immediately next to the consumer unit, but it doesn't have to.
Despite seeing it often, it is not acceptable to just poke the end of the SWA into the consumer unit.
If the consumer unit is plastic, then if terminating the SWA inside, perhaps it would be into a metal adaptable box adjacent to the consumer unit, assuming it is to be connected to an MCB in the consumer unit.
I don't see why the method of terminating the SWA at the house would restrict whether...
The pumps have to be started manually for a few reasons, partly safety concerns (plus there is an emergency stop wired in at the pool), and partly because the pumps don't always reliably start (something to do with the pipe arrangements and one of them sometimes getting an airlock). So if they...
No, it is power to the whole premises that loses power. It is a somewhat rural location, and prone to power cuts, mostly of a short duration, sometimes longer.
When the power cuts out, the contactors drop out, and when power is restored, someone needs to restart the pumps.
The boiler just...
On Hager dual row consumer units, I've found the connection between the two earth bars (via the casing) not actually that good. So I always interconnect them, and I'd probably do the same here.
It was suggested to me to put the Pool DB on the UPS, there is not much unrelated connected (just a few lights, I think).
Total would be no more than 3kW (when running).
But do I need to then uprate the UPS (e.g. to 6kW or more) to cope with pump start-up currents? Or do typical (decent...
This might help sometimes, but if there is a power fail late Friday, and nobody is around till after the weekend, that is 2 to 3 days when the pumps maybe could have been running but weren't. Unless the alarm was sent to a mobile phone I suppose, and someone could then visit (which in itself...
Background
A pool installation uses two single phase pumps to circulate the water (through a boiler, and filtering, dosing etc). The pumps are controlled via contactors in the pump house, plus a remote emergency stop close to the pool. The location is somewhat rural, and prone to power cuts...
Agree with Pirate, apart from charging difficulty on long runs, I'd continually have range anxiety. Plus the market has indeed tanked, second hand values have plumeted, and insurance is expensive. Then there is the danger of a minor dent writing the vehicle off because the battery might be...
I have an ET4000, now 4 years old. Generaly I like it, but for one snag - the front panel push buttons become unreliable with use. After about 2 years I had several buttons so unreliable I took it apart and replaced the faulty ones. More recently I took it apart again and replaced several...
I generally use Raytech Magic Gel, but it is not cheap but re-enterable and can be partially removed & then topped up (and also reuse the bits you remove, if need be). Better to buy e.g. two x 500ml bottles, which cost a little under £50, and will do a number of smaller e.g. Wiska 206 or 308...
Currently fire alarm cable outoors tied together round a pipe with all the other cables, so no containment at all, presumably the installers thought that was OK. Could quite easily have two smaller black trunkings, just don't tell me it has to be in red trunking!
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