Probably IMO the best choice to install the 10mm even though the shower is only rated at 8.5KW it will allow for any future upgrades to a more powerful shower with the correct testing beforehand obviously. All new builds install 10mm as standard nowadays so for me it was the right thing to do as...
It must be a variation in colleges and the one you attended sounds a lot better than mine. Not one singular module was tested at our college only the final level exam 2 rig. I would liked to of seen more testing done during the year as it would certainly of helped the less experienced students.
Have you considered contacting your local college electrical tutors. It may only just be cable pulling but you may find the tutors will have some perfectly willing and reliable students with site experience who would be up for some experience of cable running and appreciate the work.
Very true but the OP stated the new shower is to powerful it may well be a 10.5KW shower in which case 6mm is not sufficient for the load taking into account the cable routing e.t.c. I have been taught to always install 10mm for shower supplies as it will allow for the higher load showers to run...
Its hard to tell from that but that looks like a 32mm backbox. If it is then you will probably never get those cables terminated correctly you need a deep 47mm box
Well I be fecked that has to be the best bit of knowledge I have learnt in a long time and I will remember that for the rest of my career. I would never of thought of that and have struggled a few times before when I needed to open up a hole for a bigger diameter light fitting. Brilliant little...
The level 2 focuses very little on the testing aspect and is only touched on very lightly at the end of the year when the practical modules have all been put in place by building the final exam rig. The tutors will show you what to do on the testing side but it is only very basic. The level 3...
Agree with Oliver on this one its a common mistake. 10mm can be a bugger to work with so try stripping back the outer pvc further to leave slightly longer cables to work with but bear in mind if they are to long it will have the same effect as they will not sit in the backbox...
I totally agree with you but that does not always happen. A new owner who is moving in will most likely disconnect his own electric cooker from his old property see that in his new property there is a cooker isolator in place and rewire his new cooker in to the cooker outlet without giving it...
Correct me if im wrong here please but a dual outlet plate has the feed or supply in and the ability to connect 2 loads out.Your drawing is showing the highest load on the last point of radial which would be fed by 4mm T&E cable from either a socket or FCU. If the dual outlet plate is fitted...
Funny you mention that i have had to do that with a batch i brought from screwfix they were branded rawlplug so I thought they were a good quality. The screws are pan head and i tried to screw them into the galvanised board fixings and not one will screw in easily they just dont match the thread...
But by doing it that way you have pictured the cooker outlet becomes the spur? I may be wrong but the socket should become the spur and be at the last point of the Radial and should also be supplied by a 6mm cable.
The pilot hole enables the course thread of the plasterboard fixing to bite into the plasterboard rather than tear its way in if that makes sense. by drilling a clean 4mm hole the board has a clean hole for the fixing to pass into.
Hi Chris welcome to the forum.
Im not sure what you mean by units? unit 1 2 and 3 have been fed via each of the 3 phases to provide single phase power (230V)
If I am correct the cable supplying each unit will be of the new colours and that will come under the harmonization of cable colours...
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