Frost stat is just a switch that turns on when it's cold, it matters more what's connected ie heaters and where they are located, hence the discussion about heating the loft.
trying to warm a space outside the insulated envelope is wasteful so the op should either extend the insulated envelope...
Picking hairs now but you can't remove them all without disconnecting the downstream connection of the water/gas
How about if the boiler is in, and the gas is extraneous but not the water, you wouldn't be able to tell which without breaking into the pipe work.
Same goes if neither are but...
you must have done the same Google search as me then!
When i posted mine yours didn't have a link, then i posted my reply with a link, then later i noticed you had the same link in your post so i was confused
if there's a metal pipe below, then the insulating section isn't at the point of entry. I'm sure everyone has their limits on how far from the point of entry is close enough, but if the water supply comes in 6 inches of metal at elbow height next to the washing machine on a TN-C-S that's a bit...
singles are insulated and sheathed not double insulated, but even if they were you would need some means of protection from electric shock through faults at the terminations/accessories, not just the wiring itself. you would also need to run a CPC to all points in or with the wiring system as well.
You can get a priority switch that only lets one work at a time
http://www.meteorelectrical.com/distribution-control/consumer-units-accessories-1/garo-priority-shower-board-non-priority.html
Seems absolutely spot on to me, i didn't trust it at first and always remeasured, but it was always more accurate than by the time you dealt with the hook on the tape measure and bend in the tape going into a reveal etc plus other human errors.
Just because the ring is a standard circuit and it's an easy to remember amount, there's nothing else special about the length of a roll. If you design it all correctly you won't end up far off so it's a rule of thumb.
It's just a short cut to avoid detailed design and calcs. You can just design...
Maybe truet, but in terms of IP ratings that's not good. To be effectively class II it would need double or reinforced insulation, neither of which a socket has.
Wagobox or even surface mount back box yes, but metal socket box even though it's not an appliance i would still treat the back box as...
Well bs7671 isn't statutory anyway despite my earlier flippant comment, but in terms of h&s acts and electricity at work etc which are, you need to look at what's present. In my opinion short of encasing the light in a locked or screwed cabinet with adequate signage you're creating an...
If it could be used to supply class I equipment or had any exposed conductive parts then you would need to consider adding the surrounding area to the equipotential zone
Well, you certainly wouldn't do both if you're talking about bonding to the incoming supply, but cost would be the obvious...
I don't think so, as you say in the rest of your post you'd like to oversize the cable and ocpd beyond the design current which is fine, and separation of circuits to minimise inconvenience is a sensible principle. However with the talk of 10mm2 cable i thought it wise to post:D
Main if it's likely to introduce local earth into an equipotential zone.
If the op is not relying on ADS for fault protection he could get away with it, but with a class I light it would need testing against the installation earth
well I'm no electrician, but in that case the design current could be 14.2A which would be 1.5mm cable in most circumstances and the breaker could be 16A. There's no penalty for using a larger cable though, other than cost, and ease of installation. I would still recommend hard wired on a...
is that 14A for each oven after diversity or that is the peak demand? You might find it is fine with both on a 16A supply with 2.5mm or maybe even 1.5mm cable depending on installation method etc.
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