If it is a fused spur than you have a 13A limit, however, that might not be enough (you absolutely need to find out the overall load and any switch-on surge) and even then the cable & breaker size/type depend on the supply characteristics (Ze in particular) and the total length, so there is not...
Here the BPG#4 is useful, it is not a statutory document at all, but it provides good guidance as to what can reasonably considered as C1/C2/C3 and if any differ from it they ought to provide very good justification.
That is quite possible, as it is simply guidance, but many a dodgy EICR falls...
You can get surge-protected 13A plugs such as this:
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/9518s-3a/plugtop-surge-protected-3a/dp/PL13931?st=surge%20protected%20plugs
But they do have limited energy absorption. As @richy3333 as said, a new CU will have far greater capacity for surges as well as...
There is an article about that here:
https://www.cement.org/learn/concrete-technology/durability/corrosion-of-embedded-materials
It states:
Although steel’s natural tendency is to undergo corrosion reactions, the alkaline environment of concrete (pH of 12 to 13) provides steel with corrosion...
Indeed it does. But what is so funny here is during the 2011 United Kingdom Alternative Vote referendum they campaigned to keep the current FPP system.
If it is this one, then factory photo looks correct (brown towards front panel, opposite to example here):
https://www.se.com/uk/en/product/GGBL3060L/lisse-switched-socket-lockable-2-gangs-13-a-230-v-white/
Actually looked again and the grey thing has IN/OP marked and matching so it is correctly located, but wires crossed. Either way it should be reported.
If the switch (grey think?) was rotated 180 deg it would be correctly wired, and those cables look pretty much cut to length as fitted, so is that what has gone wrong?
Certainly it should be reported as that looks like a product recall situation.
They are one of the "cool to have" things I would like to get, but I hardly ever need one and my own flat, my sisters & parents semi-detached homes, are all of Victorian age and practically nothing is horizontal/vertical!
I'm assuming the cable will have to be cleated well to hold it in place anyway, as a stuffing gland ain't going to hold it tight like a SWA gland to metal box would do?
If so the gland is really serving as an IP seal and less of a cable termination method and in which case it seems reasonable...
Strictly speaking you can't have a floating neutral as neutral is defined as the conductor that is earth-referenced. However, for many it is simply the conductor with the blue insulation!
It is not uncommon for small generators and inverters to be IT (isolated) supplies as it is simpler and...
If you are seeing several 10Ms or more, and especially if it increases as you keep the test voltage on it, then I would not worry.
Edit: Look up "Polarisation Index" or "Dielectric Absorption Ratio" if you want some more info.
I can see why the UK decided against mandating earth rods for existing properties: just imagine the amount of service cable/pipe damage from ~10 million new earth rods being driven down in urban areas! However I thought they were very foolish not to mandate either a good rod or proper foundation...
I have a similar cutter, but that has two stripping holes and not the other features, but found it annoying trying to cut wire and it getting only partially cut unless I carefully positioned it at the outer half of the blades.
I have used the CK "automatic wire stripper" and it is great for PVC T&E cable. Not very good for XPLE insulation, and not so great for round cables, also I used an angle grinder to remove the palm-biting parts of the inner handles.
It needs someone like @Risteard who is familiar with the ROI rules to properly answer this.
In more general terms, if you think a cable is an earth rod you can isolate it and check its Ra using either a dedicated earth test meter and soil probes, or more conveniently for an already energised...
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