google tridonic led drivers, go to the tridonic website , find the right one for the power required and check the dimensions, get product code and order through your favourite supplier
Try using the switch
You can try the Touchdim function, remove the dimmer switch and use a retractive switch, like a bell switch to control the on/off dim up dim down functions built into the driver. There is a little diagram on the driver to show you how to wire it up
https://www.comms-express.com/products/netgear-gs108lp-100eus-8-port-unmanaged-gigabit-switch-with-poe/
Replace switch A with above. Plug one cable from BT router into it and all other connections go to this switch.
If the POE camera can reach the loft, plug that into this new switch
Replace...
Apart from the BT supplied router, are all the other routers just wifi access points ?
Also what does DC mean on the drawing.
Happy to share stuff i have used that would do the job, save you having the pain of whats what
The Tridonic Outdoor range are brilliant drivers for high voltage. I have used around 100 on a project and they have been bullet proof apart from one which was powering a long row of tree lights that got attacked by lawnmower man.
Tridonic have, unfortunately (and i can understand why) made...
How are these lights controlled ?
Do they dim or are they fixed output?
Do you turn them on with a simple switch?
Reason for asking is that they do appear to be using quite complex drivers for simply on/off
Sadly these drivers are now discontinued, been looking for a couple of 100W versions and had to resort to Ebay.
The replacements are current set by NFC programming which you can get done but there is a charge. No sure of the available steps and you may get closer to 600mA rather than settling...
Depends on the CT type as some (iron core) can produce very high voltages at open circuit, there should be a shorting block installed to allow for shorting the CTs secondary before removing the connections. Best check the CT type first before pulling it.
The only way i can think of to rule out the wiring is to bypass the wiring from MAF to ECU. However, depending on the Make and model of vehicle you may find there are codes available from ECU to help determine whether the MAF is at fault.
Not aware of any limitation and in the commercial installs i come acros,s it is common for the inverters to be connected into a sub board off the Main DB. It just means a good pack of labels required to ensure the main DB is isolated fully. You can get the labels easily enough.
Depends what cars they have, hybrids dont take much at all, pure EVs typically charge at 11KW some can at 22KW. What i have found is that very soon they will need multiple chargers, so 3 X 7kw chargers will be more useful than one 22kw charger.
Crumbs Buzz, lots of options, depends on make and model. Biggest one i have done required
1. TP supply
2. SP Supply
3. Internet connection.
4. Outside temp connection.
5. Alarm output connection.
6. Remote Auto / standby
7. Extended temp sensor wires for Buffer tanks.
8. UFH Controls back to...
Any UPS has to be the supply for the pumps, the grid runs behind it. Its the only real way of ensuring there is no interruption. a UPS can also be a grid conditioner and clean up a crappy grid. So your pumps start current will need to go through the UPS..... So any UPS you will need to check...
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc