I'm struggling to understand why anyone would have an issue with 8 year old panels being reinstalled when they have a 25 year performance warranty and will probably be at around 95% of their initial rated output.
Decent panels should be good for 40-50 years (albeit with reduced effiiciency, but...
disconnect and move one cable at a time while the other cable is still isolated in the isolator, that way while the cable is live there's no possibility of you being electrocuted as the circuit can't be completed.
The circuits are electrically separated from earth as long as the AC and DC...
if you know what you're doing then it's not dangerous, if you don't then it could be.
It could result in a circuit being overloaded without tripping the MCB / Fuse that's supposed to protect the circuit if wired in the way they suggest.
I was under the impression that the UK company had gone bust and it was the UK company that the warranty was held with - news to me that there is any chance of getting a replacement under warranty.
If there is no protective device then the answer is... n/a
on commercial systems usually with 3 string combining or more then there would (should) be DC string fuses, but that doesn't apply to most systems.
26V makes it look like the bypass diode has kicked in to take the affected cells out of production anyway, in which case the losses would only be those associated with 1/3 of 1 panel being removed from production. If the bypass diode hadn't functioned then yes this cell would drag the rest down.
unfortunately you've been ripped off, there was never any chance of a 20% increase in generation unless your previous system was heavily shaded and using a poorly performing inverter in the first place.
Please complain to trading standards about the company who mis-sold you that 'upgrade'.
I'm pretty sure that the databases used were simply built up by the previous cold calling companies who were selling solar who simply recorded every time the person answering the phone told them they weren't interested because they already had a solar system installed.
there's a bit of misunderstanding in this post, the house will still be connected to the grid, the hybrid inverter simply provides power from the solar panels and batteries when that's available, and charges the batteries with excess power. Any additional power draw comes from the grid directly...
For that size bill, an educated guess would be that the target temperature has been set at 55 degrees or higher with no interlink to an immersion for the last bit, which the system is struggling to hit so ends up running basically continuously at a very low COP.
Educated guess being that bill...
First thing I'd look at is your demand, as those figures are incredibly high for a house, and you'll be spending an absolute fortune on solar PV and batteries / inverters to supply that lot, so reduce your demand to a more sensible level first.
Most low energy UK houses have a base load more...
yes. I think you need to use genius roof solutions small flashing kit with it and grind a slot out of the tiles, but can't 100% remember.
I'd suggest they go roof integrated though.
you'd need to take the lid of the trunking, the earth is probably linked out in the trunking.
Dare I suggest that you might need to get an electrician round to test this out and confirm if it's an inverter fault or a wiring fault?
Chances are that it's an inverter fault, in which case it will...
I know, that's what I was referring to in the first post.
not really, most of our customers have their FIT & export with good energy, and supply with multiple other companies.
How are Good Energy supposed to be obtaining the export readings?
I'm sure it's technically feasible, but probably...
Thing is though, it works as a relatively low cost subsidy to encourage investment in batteries or immersion diversion devices which actually help to balance the grid.
Compared to the capacity market I'd expect it to work out significantly lower cost way of doing pretty much the same thing.
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