Yes the clips are not as smart looking with only one cable in them but I find they hold better than the DeWalt one my mate has.
Yes they will do cat5/6 with no issues of gripping the cable too tight. I have done a few CCTV systems with it, all cat cables along wooden perlings and the Milwaukee...
Thanks for that @happysteve
I have mine on the 5th of December so useful to know about the questions on other Parts of the building regs, I'll make sure I have them to hand!
Cheers:thumbsup:
I have the Milwaukee 12v cable stapler, it's brilliant!
Does most of what I need it to do, can be a pain in tight spaces, but generally a spot on bit of kit and won't nail through your cable either.
Saves a sore thumb at the end of the day too!:mask:
From the picture, I would guess that the circuits were originally destined for the two 6a RCBO'S (but due to some mix up, fault, borrowed neutral) ended up being wedged into the 20a MCB!
They are excellent, I have used them a few times for consumer unit relocations!
They can get a bit tight with cables if you're using all the terminals, even when dressed nicely!
It's a shame as they were cheap and fast for DeWalt and the likes, I have ordered all sorts from them over the years and never been let down!
Have to find another supplier now!
I've been fitting CAME gate kits.
They are very adaptive, have intercoms, keypads, fobs, autodialers entry exit.
They also do a lot of wireless kit that has been very useful where the customer doesn't want the drive cut or dug up.
Not so sure on the anpr entry exit have never been asked so far...
There is a lock on it, press the test button down and press the lock button, the symbol will appear on the screen in the middle right hand side saying it's locked on.
Has the cover been removed, is it TP bussbar?
I fitted one as @oscar21 linked to a few months ago, it was actually a nice board and with the TP RCBO's made an excellent job!
Interesting, I've seen it installed on plant but never used it.
I am not a fan of SY and will only use it on VFD connections or where shielding is required.
Most of the time I favour HO7 for isolator to equipment connections as it's resistance to most things is high.
I have one, it's a well handy bit of kit!
It will move it or shear it, usually move it but had a couple of 20mm bolts it's snapped.
I tend to go in with some release spray and heat first, then give it some torque!
I use the CK one and a Batavia from Amazon.
They are both good in their own ways, imo the buttons to operate the CK one are in the wrong place for comfort but it has 1-6 torque settings which is useful...
Thanks Dan!
Haven't managed to get on here much recently as much as I would like to, just the odd like and agree, work has taken over again!
Such is life and business!!
Cheers Sy
Well at about 9.30 last night I stripped the door card off and found the culprit, cable snapped and end off. So I spent another hour and managed to get the window secured up.
Also managed to order a new one so that will keep me busy when it turns up!
What a mission!
Tbh I'm glad it's not just me.
I've had a loooong day too, not as early as you by 1/2 hour but not long got back and my drivers window went with a bang when I went to close it and now will not go up or down.
YAY I know what I will be doing now!!
😕
I think I'd be looking more at 6kw to run the whole lot.
And depending on the length of the power outages I'd be suggesting a generator if they were lengthy.
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