View the thread, titled "10-25mm crimper" which is posted in Electrical Tools and Products on Electricians Forums.

they look silver, i just ask for lugs at the wholesaler (never seen any copper on them but thats just on the bigger sizes e.g. 50mm

Yep, all common lugs will be tinned copper.

No it won't, it must be electrically sound as well as mechanically sound!

Where on earth are you getting steel lugs from? Lugs for copper cables should be tinned copper
just googled it, you learn something new everyday
 
they look silver, i just ask for lugs at the wholesaler (never seen any copper on them but thats just on the bigger sizes e.g. 50mm

How did you think the solder takes to them if they were steel? Or don't they teach sweating lugs anymore?
 
just tried them out today on some 16mm earth i had in the garage and there good.

18b54112eb44de6a92fdf71473740a4f.jpg


84dc093439b0658dcfe74683b38e62c0.jpg


926cb2947a23ea45b353ff6aaf586269.jpg


3200a4fc22958451bbe8c05149a0794f.jpg



crimped one on its own without a cable inside and it crimps uniform inside as well
 
Out of curiosity (I don't need to buy one btw but it may help others decide before buying one )
What's the build quality like?

The one I saw looked the same, bit of the usual wear and tear on the finish which wasn't the best,
but like I said before it seemed ok just didn't crimp quite as well as the cembre one,

Can you do a review after a few months of use ie is it ok or has it failed at some point
 
Out of curiosity (I don't need to buy one btw but it may help others decide before buying one )
What's the build quality like?

The one I saw looked the same, bit of the usual wear and tear on the finish which wasn't the best,
but like I said before it seemed ok just didn't crimp quite as well as the cembre one,

Can you do a review after a few months of use ie is it ok or has it failed at some point
will do, i won't really use it a great deal but the build quality seems good.

the dies dont quite lock solid but when you locate the lug in the jaws the play makes it easier to locate it and then it works perfectly.

its not really a problem but only time will tell, it doesnt seem likely it will slide when you try to crimp the button to allow the dies to spin pushes a 3mm plate back to allow the dies to spin.

ill get some close up shots tomorrow but im quite impressed especially with the price
 
The reason for the play in the dies I would think is to ensure its crimped equally around the lug ,ie the dies meet correctly

If they were locked in position the bottom would be crimped more so than the upper side, like if you tried crimping a ferrule with pliers (seen it a few times!) the bottom is cut in deep the upper side hardly touched
 
just tried them out today on some 16mm earth i had in the garage and there good.

18b54112eb44de6a92fdf71473740a4f.jpg


84dc093439b0658dcfe74683b38e62c0.jpg


926cb2947a23ea45b353ff6aaf586269.jpg


3200a4fc22958451bbe8c05149a0794f.jpg



crimped one on its own without a cable inside and it crimps uniform inside as well

I like to tape over my lugs up to cable, brown, blue, grey, y/g,black just always have done.
 
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You need to test them properly.

Accurately measure the resistance of exactly 1M of conductor, preferably using something like a ductor/milliohmmeter with a reasonable test current if you have access to it or else pass a current of say 25A through it and measure the volt drop to get the resistance. Then cut the conductor and join it with a through crimp using that tool. Then re measure the resistance of 1M including the joint using the same tester/method.
The results should be substantially the same, if not then you have a high resistance joint.

You can calculate the heating effects of this increase in resistance using the current that the cable is likely to be used to carry. for example if you use 16mm conductor and the joint adds 2 ohms resistance to the conductor your heating effect with 63A current would be
P = I[SUP]2[/SUP]R
P = (63Ax63A)x2ohm
P = 7938W
P = 7,9kW
 
You need to test them properly.

Accurately measure the resistance of exactly 1M of conductor, preferably using something like a ductor/milliohmmeter with a reasonable test current if you have access to it or else pass a current of say 25A through it and measure the volt drop to get the resistance. Then cut the conductor and join it with a through crimp using that tool. Then re measure the resistance of 1M including the joint using the same tester/method.
The results should be substantially the same, if not then you have a high resistance joint.

You can calculate the heating effects of this increase in resistance using the current that the cable is likely to be used to carry. for example if you use 16mm conductor and the joint adds 2 ohms resistance to the conductor your heating effect with 63A current would be
P = I[SUP]2[/SUP]R
P = (63Ax63A)x2ohm
P = 7938W
P = 7,9kW
i went with tonys method.

chopped through the middle of the crimp and i would not recommend them, the crimp isnt tight on the cable all the way around

33d31ad0f1d3cc605993f628ac4dc3fa.jpg


the crimp should be solid on the copper all the way on the outside at least from the type of crimper it is
 
Thanks for sharing the info,pics, and result.
I'm looking at having to buy a crimper today or tomorrow, and was hoping this cheap option would work well.
I would be very interested to see what difference the £65 CK T3676 makes.
I'm guessing no one is going to crimp a lug and cut it through to show LOL.
 
Thanks for sharing the info,pics, and result.
I'm looking at having to buy a crimper today or tomorrow, and was hoping this cheap option would work well.
I would be very interested to see what difference the £65 CK T3676 makes.
I'm guessing no one is going to crimp a lug and cut it through to show LOL.
forget that ck one. £20 on tlc for a crimper from swa
 
Ha ha I suppose I could get the CK one from Screwfix - do a test connection, if it ain't pucker I can take it back for a full refund. :biggrin:
 

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