K
Knobhead
There is more than one reason why it is a bad idea to connector joint neutrals in a switch box....
#1 There is a risk of a 'bad' connector joint. Examples are terminals becoming loose if connector has to be 'jiggled' in box to make switch plate fit correctly, conductor material becoming exposed because connector has to be 'bent over' to allow for switch housing to fit correctly etc. etc.
There is an equal risk in a three plate system.
#2 Even an extra 3 conductors can cause a lot of trouble space wise, especially on a 3-Gang 2-Way switch, leading to possibilty of conductors being pushed hard against any 'sharp' part of switch box or fixing screws.
If you look at my drawing there are three conductors between each switch point. How many in a conventional system. There is a way to get around that and use T&E but I’m sick and tired of shared neutral threads.
#3 Makes it more awkward to obtain true test results (Less of a risk, but still exists)
So you don’t know what you’re doing! I’ll bet you only run radials for sockets!
Basically, and apologies to anyone who prefers the 'neutral in a connector method' it is just bad practice to use this method.
Where does it state this is BAD practice?
As to having to over-sleeve etc, whether at light or switch ALL conductors should be correctly identified (you should use Brown/Brown T+E for strappers etc anyway......... Red/Red in your case)
BTW
I don’t advocate neutrals at switches unless there is a reason.
I answered the OP question with a drawing in “good faith!”