Any tips on lifting glued down chipboard?

[Marc Rufus]

So. Having brought a new house the misses now wants downlights. Not an issue. Only snag is the boards aren't screwed they are glued down. I've done a few new builds but everything is wired from below so how is the best way to lift the boards? Is it just a case of expect to replace what you have to lift? Will it come up at all? Will I spend weeks scraping glue off the joists?

 

[Rocboni]

We just use a circular saw set to the depth of the weyroc, cut back to joists and fillet the sides and replace with new, glued and screwed back down to stop any squeaks, usually only need a sheet up in the middle of the room above and fish to each hole with rods, if we come across a joist we just cut and patch the ceiling, handy when all lights are in the same bays though.

 

[sparksburnout]

Like ałl these things what you need is something called experience. It's usually possible to plan it so the lights are running down a joist length so you can often get away without wrecking the house. It's alright talking about overboarding and skimming but have you seen the mess it makes? That's if you can get a decent plasterer to get out of bed for a single ceiling. Last job I did the cupboards ran right up to the ceiling!

 

[buzzlightyear]

It's alright talking about overboarding and skimming but have you seen the mess it makes? That's if you can get a decent plasterer to get out of bed for a single ceiling. Last job I did the cupboards ran right up to the ceiling!

and the cost!

 

[Midwest]

Loads of plasterers like doing little PJ's at the weekend or evenings. Just got to be in the know . And you don't need to overboard. Do it all the time on kitchen refurbs, invariably 'cos the floor above has been tiled or laminated, and the current ceiling has been artexed.

In a new pad, its up to you. Floor up, or a few holes in the ceiling and a bit of plastering.

 

[SparkyChick]

But if you've got a run say a new hob from db to kitchen thats a hole at every joist to get a drill in. You'd never justify the cost of that many plugs. Surely.

Every other joist... you can drill the joist on either side from one hole, possibly more if you can get longer drill bits/extenders on. And the cost of plugs should be covered by the time you save not having the hassle of cutting and fixing battens etc.

 

[Devonchris]

I suppose all the techniques and types of construction are covered on the 4 week DI courses together with practical demos that an on the job apprentice would get?

 

[telectrix]

I suppose all the techniques and types of construction are covered on the 4 week DI courses together with practical demos that an on the job apprentice would get?

day 3, just arter lunch..... "how to butcher a chipboard floor"
day 4, 1st lesson............... "how to put the blame on wet-pants".

 

[123]

Every other joist... you can drill the joist on either side from one hole, possibly more if you can get longer drill bits/extenders on. And the cost of plugs should be covered by the time you save not having the hassle of cutting and fixing battens etc.

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

 

[telectrix]

i'd alwaysgofor theceiling.easier, cheaper to fix. no brainer.

 

[SparkyChick]

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

Never said it was a good idea... just that you could

 

[Deleted member 93172]

The trouble with drilling blind is you're going to hit any wire or pipes clipped on the other side of the joist that you couldn't see

I think you will find the special chipboard hole cutter has a stop on it to prevent you going to deep.

 

[Des 56]

Some interesting methods of accessing through the weyroc sheet

Have you ever seen a plumber gaining access when he has a leak?
I have seen that plumber on a new build gain immediate access with nothing more than a trusty hammer
Bang bang -hole,bang bang-hole

 

[Zdb]

By far the quickest and easiest way

 

[mhar]

Armeg 127mm Solid Board Cutter - Plug Set - https://www.its.co.uk/pd/SBC127PLUGSET-Armeg-127mm-Solid-Board-Cutter---Plug-Set-_ARMSBC127PLUGSET.htm

Armeg 127mm Plug Caps, Pack of 10 - https://www.its.co.uk/pd/SBC127PLUGX10-Armeg-127mm-Plug-Caps,-Pack-of-10-_ARMSBC127PLUGX10.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5KXXuPq51gIV18myCh3rWwfjEAQYCCABEgIVJ_D_BwE

I also use this to repair downlight holes when they have disintegrated. Bit of 3mm ply or hardboard and use the cutter to cut a 5" diameter circle. In the centre of this circle use the required size downlight holesaw so you end up with a 5" circle with a 72/75mm (or whatever the required size) in the middle. Saw cut between the two and you can then feed this up into above the hole so that you a) have something to fill to (if required) and b) have something solid that the sprung wings of the downlight can bear on

 

[SJD]

As already mentioned, I'd avoid lifting any boards. They are glued for a reason, after you've lifted them and replaced them, they'll squeak, and you'll regret it.

If the ceiling can be skimmed after, then holes from below is the easiest, typically I use 100mm dia holes. Keep all the plugs and put them back in the same holes, with a bit of timber batten to support them.

If you want to avoid ceiling damage, then I'm with holes from the floor above using one of the cutters. Yes a kit costs £50 but a good part of that is the steel plates (£4 each), which you'll need.

I sometimes use a right angle drill that can fit through the 100mm access hole. That way, I only need an access hole every other joist. But there is the risk of hitting existing cables & pipes in the voids you can't see, so try to work out where existing cables and pipes run first. If you've already cut the downlight holes, that gives you some clues as to what is in there.

Sometimes you can be lucky and find existing holes & cables. A recent kitchen 8 downlight job, one row of lights was almost over a run of cables, I could use the existing lighting feed from the switch to pull in a new cable between several lights positions. A good cable rod set with magnet & chain is sometimes very handy.