British General outside socket

[plancaster]

Hi People on an install I have come across a British General outside socket that is reducing the Insulation Resistance when i remove the outside socket the IR goes back up has any one come across this before
Thanks phil

 

[mattg4321]

Yep if it's damp/corroded inside or is an RCD socket.

 

[Pete999]

Hi People on an install I have come across a British General outside socket that is reducing the Insulation Resistance when i remove the outside socket the IR goes back up has any one come across this before
Thanks phil

No never have

 

[radiohead]

As above, if it's an RCD socket then it will give a low reading. A 500v test may cause damage to such a socket. Otherwise if its a standard socket you can always IR the terminals of the disconnected socket to verify.

 

[plancaster]

Hi People on an install I have come across a British General outside socket that is reducing the Insulation Resistance when i remove the outside socket the IR goes back up has any one come across this before
Thanks phil

Hi it's a brand new socket and non rcd
Phil

 

[westward10]

What is it reducing the reading to?

 

[Pete999]

What, are the IR readings with, or, without the socket being connected? Does the IR alter if you just slacken the front plate from the back box?

 

[diditrain]

Has it got a little neon indicator on it?

 

[Pete999]

Has it got a little neon indicator on it?

Well therein, lies' your problem I think. Were your IR test L to N? or LN to E

 

[telectrix]

neon should only affect the IR if the socket switch is in the ON position.

 

[plancaster]

Hi its between line and neutral the line conductors and cpc are fine I am not on site but I can not recall it having a neon but could be a poss
phil

 

[Pete999]

neon should only affect the IR if the socket switch is in the ON position.

Agree Tel but we have nil info on test results or how the tests were carried out.
[automerge]1587745759[/automerge]

Hi its between line and neutral the line conductors and cpc are fine I am not on site but I can not recall it having a neon but could be a poss
phil

As per Tel' response, test with the socket switched off, or removed from yje back box bye still connected, AND GIVE US THE RESULTS OF YOUR TESTS PLEASE.

 

[plancaster]

the reading was between line and neutral read low and the line and earth was fine as for the neon mmm I can not recall if it has one
phil

 

[westward10]

What is LOW?

 

[pc1966]

If it is one of these then it is the neon most likely:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/briti...dp-weatherproof-outdoor-switched-socket/67928

[automerge]1587748954[/automerge]
Out of curiosity has anyone used one of them? For £10 it seems very cheap but maybe it is OK.

 

[telectrix]

If it is one of these then it is the neon most likely:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/briti...dp-weatherproof-outdoor-switched-socket/67928

[automerge]1587748954[/automerge]
Out of curiosity has anyone used one of them? For £10 it seems very cheap but maybe it is OK.

or both of them. but only in circuit with switches ON. and i think BG are using LEDs instead of neons, these days.

 

[Pete999]

the reading was between line and neutral read low and the line and earth was fine as for the neon mmm I can not recall if it has one
phil

You say they were fine but what are the results of your testing?

 

[radiohead]

I use BG IP sockets, they are fine....and fitted with neon indicators. If the OP is testing L-N then that would be the reason for the low reading.
To the OP I would suggest you should only carry out a L-N test on a new known circuit where you can be certain all loads are out of circuit. A 500v test L-N can damage some equipment and if you continue to test L-N without checking it is inevitable that eventually you'll damage something expensive. On existing circuits where you cannot be absolutely certain what is connected a LN-E test is perfectly acceptable and is much safer. If you must carry out a L-N test always start with a soft test at 250v.

 

[pc1966]

If you must carry out a L-N test always start with a soft test at 250v.

It is a shame that testers don't automatically start at 250V and then only go up if it looks like an open circuit (say > 1M or maybe more) meriting more volts to verify that.

 

[davesparks]

It is a shame that testers don't automatically start at 250V and then only go up if it looks like an open circuit (say > 1M or maybe more) meriting more volts to verify that.

Not really, an electrician should have enough knowledge to be able to perform tests safely without needing the tester to do it all for them.