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Discuss Cable size issue with size of shower in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello
Looking for some guidance please.
Lived in current house just over a year now and had couple issues with our pull cord switch (45A) sticking. Also at its worst, experienced the neutral burnt out.
My relative (industrial electrician) has put some potential issues across to me so was hoping you could all help make sense of it all.
Shower is 9.5KW
Unsure on voltage 230/240
Cable is 6mm
MCB is 32A type 2.
Cable from consumer to pull cord no more than 10M inside wall.
Pull cord to shower 1-2M above ceiling.

They have put doubts to me that the cable may not be big enough
Other option is they said to get smaller shower.
 
Or a 45Amp one connected up properly.
could just be poor quality switches. click now do a 50A round one, just like the crabby one. as long as cable is not under insulation, then i'sgo with a 50A switch and a 40A breaker on that 6.0mm. (9500/240 = 39.6A ( to 1 dec.pl.)) so 6mm rated @ 47A will be fine.

tin hat firmly in place.
 
Never had to replace a Crabtree ....
i have. bugger had only been in 15 years and my mate ( who was the customer., cheeky sod, asked if it was still under warranty).
 
That makes more sense as mentioned I have only live here a year and got through three pull cord switches.
When the pull cord starts stic

The times we have changed the pull switch is because the inner has been burnt resulting in it melting mechanism.
When I told my relative they were concerned about the cable size and shower size. (They currently working night shifts so don’t want to disturb)

If you've had issues with the terminals overheating (for whatever reason), if the cable ends have had thermal damage, just replacing the pull cord is not going to solve the problem, the replacement will go eventually. You'd have to cut the cable back until you some nice shiny copper wire :)

Edit; don't know why people insist on using the pull cord to turn an electric shower on/off, when the shower has a perfectly good (and more functional) on/off switch itself. After all its just for safe isolation, more than a functional switch, I'd guess a manufacturer would say?
 
Last edited:
Quality pull switch or cheap one, they are not as easy to replace as many think with 6 or 10mm cables. If the OP has changed a number of switches I'd suggest the terminations are loose/poor. I've seen plenty of cheap'uns go on for years if connected by someone who knows what they are doing.
 
don't know why people insist on using the pull cord to turn an electric shower on/off,when the shower has a perfectly good (and more functional) on/off switch itself

main reason is that the on/off switch on the shower can only be reached when you are standing in the shower. then you get a deluge of freezing cold water on your head till the pathetic over rated kettle element in the shower manages to warm the water up.
 

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