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When time clock is on the pump on and boiler was firing, when time clock off everything off. When you turn all off and then turn on individually the respective zone the correct valve and pump/pumps combinations work and the boiler fires. When I was there on sat night after a well earned few beers the pump was still running and I was concerned the problem was still there. I got up and turned the rooms stat down on the CH and it all switched off. He has phoned me today so I wonder if the valve is sticking intermittently?
 
When time clock is on the pump on and boiler was firing, when time clock off everything off. When you turn all off and then turn on individually the respective zone the correct valve and pump/pumps combinations work and the boiler fires. When I was there on sat night after a well earned few beers the pump was still running and I was concerned the problem was still there. I got up and turned the rooms stat down on the CH and it all switched off. He has phoned me today so I wonder if the valve is sticking intermittently?
sounds like a wiring issue to me. generally when two port valves stick the boiler will still constantly fire when off at the programmer as the micro switch is closed between grey which is perm live and orange which is switched live to boiler/pump.
 
The Hot Water is constantly on when turned on at the time clock, i.e not cutting out, I think the boiler is also firing constantly. I have wired the UFH pump to a separate wireless time clock/thermostat as only one zone and working with what was there. Now starting to doubt my wiring although at the weekend everything seemed to be working okay?

Bit odd !
It sounds like it could be either a sticky micro switch or a wiring fault to me.

The only doubts I have about a wiring fault is that you just re wired it !

The doubts I have about microswitch is that the clock wouldn't stop it running ( if wired correctly).


To rule it out micro switch disconnect orange and grey on each valve and test continuity, there shouldn't be any when valves are closed. It won't necessarily be the hot water micro that's stuck
( if it is that ).

Where's your PL to grey from? No switches involved in that are there?
Room / cal stats etc to just brown on valves ?
 
I will have to go back to fault find, the UFH zone is not controlled by the same programmer as the CH and HW, it has its own wireless programmable rooms stat. I have wired the UFH and the additional pump via the feed from the additional programmer, I wonder if this is in some way back feeding the CH pump? Everything in isolation was working fine on Saturday.
 
If you have an SL (orange) from the UFH valve to that pump (UFH) and to the boiler and the boiler and CH pump are fed from the orange on the other two then when the UFH valve is open, there will be a back feed from the UFH orange via boiler SL to CH pump and vice versa, yes.
In that case you could use contactor sets for the boiler SL and pumps, (Two two pole, one for each pump use orange to throw contact set).

If it needs a pump over run, you will have to incorporate a delay timer

Thanks for your time, I have wired the live from the independant wireless timer/thermostat to the UFH pump and then also the brown on the UFH zone valve. The CH pump and boiler being connected via the orange wire. To my mind when the thermostat calls for heat the UFH pump should immediately switch on, then the zone valve would energise kicking in the boiler and CH pump. When the zone is up to heat the thermostat should switch off turning off the UFH pump and then de energising the zone valve and turning off the s/l to boiler and pump?
Alternatively when the CH or HW turn on they should not turn on the independent UFH pump? Am I missing something?
 
The only thing I didn't rewire on Sat was the CH pump as it had been installed at a wonky angle, and I couldn't get the front off how about the internal wiring in the pump is reverse polarity and back feeding that way?
 
Thanks yes thanks for your help makes sense, never used a contact set as have always used a wiring centre with a separate UFH pump terminal, I take it you mean a 2 pole 240v relay. Is there any preferred make or setup?
 
I have deleted your posts as requested.

You can PM @rolyberkin by using the envelope in the top right corner or by clicking on his profile.
 
Thanks for your time, I have wired the live from the independant wireless timer/thermostat to the UFH pump and then also the brown on the UFH zone valve. The CH pump and boiler being connected via the orange wire. To my mind when the thermostat calls for heat the UFH pump should immediately switch on, then the zone valve would energise kicking in the boiler and CH pump. When the zone is up to heat the thermostat should switch off turning off the UFH pump and then de energising the zone valve and turning off the s/l to boiler and pump?
Alternatively when the CH or HW turn on they should not turn on the independent UFH pump? Am I missing something?

Not an expert on heating systems, but did an UFH last year. Seem to remember the thermostat for the UFH switched the zone valve for the UFH, via the orange wire. The UFH pump is given a live feed, and operates via the mixer valve and just keeps turning on & off, blending the heated water from the boiler with the loop for the UFH?
 
Ps, it's all flooding back to me!

UFH stat calls for heat & opens the UFH zone valve, which in turn ask the boiler/pump to turn on, for heated water. Meanwhile, UFH mixer valve & pump, who live in a world of their own, sense there's some lovely hot water to blend, and open & start pumping around the loop. When UFH stat cancels call for heat, UFH zone valve closes, and after a short period UFH mixer valve & pump, sense the good times are over and close & stop.
Any how, that's how the manufacturers rep explained it to me, I think :)
 
Unfortunately as this is a stand alone single circuit and the previous sparks didn't put in a dedicated wiring centre which I would normally use which has the ability to setup multiple pumps, I think I need either a different wiring centre or to put in a relay to stop the second pump back feeding the HW/CH pump, however I keep looking at the wiring diagram and can't work out where the back feed is coming from, got them pulling the wireless receiver tonight to see if that solves it!:-( I wouldn't mind but he is plumber by trade, he should be able to do his own wiring!:)
 

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